Page 424 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Europe

422  IT AL Y AND GREECE

8 Scuola di San
Giorgio degli
Schiavoni
Calle Furlani. Tel 041-522 88 28. 4 San
Zaccaria. Open daily. Closed Mon am,
Sun pm. &
Within this small Scuola,
established in 1451 and rebuilt The single-story palazzo housing the Peggy Guggenheim Collection
in 1551, are some of the finest
paintings of Vittore Carpaccio Construction of the church, 0 Peggy
(c.1460–1525). Commissioned begun in 1630 by Baldassare Guggenheim
by the Schiavoni, or Dalmatian Longhena, was not completed Collection
Slav trading community in until 1687, five years after
Venice, Carpaccio’s exquisite his death. Palazzo Venier dei Leoni. Tel 041-240
frieze (1502–08) shows scenes The comparatively sober 54 11. 4 Accademia. Open Wed–
from the lives of three saints: interior of Santa Maria della Mon. Closed Dec 25. & 8 (audio).
St. George, St. Tryphon, and Salute consists of a large = - ∑ guggenheim-venice.it
St. Jerome. Each episode of the octagonal space below the
narrative cycle is remarkable for cupola and six chapels Intended as a four-story palace,
its vivid coloring and minutely radiating from the ambulatory. the 18th-century, Palazzo Venier
observed detail of Venetian life. The sculptural group around dei Leoni in fact never rose
St. George Slaying the Dragon the grandiose high altar is beyond the ground floor –
and The Vision of St. Jerome are by Giusto Le Corte and hence its nickname “The
both outstanding. represents the Virgin and Unfinished Palace.” In 1949, the
Child protecting the city of building was bought by Peggy
9 Santa Maria della Venice from the plague. Guggenheim (1898–1979), an
Salute In the sacristy to the left of American collector, dealer, and
the altar, Titian’s early altarpiece
patron of the arts. One of the
Campo della Salute. Tel 041-241 00 18. St. Mark Enthroned with St. Cosmas, most visited sights of Venice,
4 Salute. Open daily. & to sacristy. St. Damian, St. Roch and St. the palace is the best place in
Sebastian (1511–12) and his the city to see modern art. The
The great Baroque church of dramatic ceiling paintings light-filled rooms and modern
Santa Maria della Salute, of David and Goliath, Cain and canvases are in striking contrast
standing at the entrance of the Abel, and The Sacrifice of Isaac to the majority of the art on
Grand Canal, is an imposing (1540–9) are considered the display in Venice.
architectural landmark of Venice. finest paintings in the church. Her collection consists of 200
The Wedding at fine paintings and sculptures,
Cana (1551) on representing the 20th century’s
the wall opposite most influential modern art
the entrance, is movements. The dining room
a major work by has notable Cubist works of art,
Jacopo Tintoretto. including The Poet by Pablo
The church Picasso, and an entire room is
was named Salute, devoted to Jackson Pollock,
which means who was “discovered” by
both “health” and Guggenheim. There are also
“salvation,” in works by Braque, Chagall, Dalí,
thanksgiving for the Klee, Mondrian, and Magritte,
deliverance of the whose Surreal Empire of Light
city from the plague (1953–4) shows a night scene
epidemic of 1630. of a darkened house with bright
Each November, in a daylight above.
moving ceremony The sculpture collection,
of remembrance, which includes Constantin
worshipers light Brancusi’s elegant Bird in Space
candles and (c.1923), is laid out in the house
approach the and the garden.
church across a Perhaps the most provoc ative
bridge of boats piece, on the canal terrace, is
which spans the Marino Marini’s Angelo della Città
The Baroque church of Santa Maria della Salute, viewed from mouth of the (1948). It shows a man sitting on
the other side of the Grand Canal Grand Canal. a horse, erect in all respects.
For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3

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