Page 426 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Europe

424  IT AL Y AND GREECE

a Ferrara chapels open off the
nave of the Gothic
* 140,000. £ @ n Castello
Estense, Piazza Castello (0532-20 93 70). interior, many with
( Mon & Fri. ∑ ferrarainfo.com fine works of art.
San Domenico is
The d’Este dynasty has left an the most important
indelible mark on Ferrara, one of Italy’s many
of the Emilia-Romagna region’s Dominican churches,
greatest walled towns. The housing, as it does,
noble family took control of the the tomb of
town under Nicolò II in the late St. Dominic himself.
13th century, holding power A magnificent
until 1598. Castello Estense, the composite work, the
family’s dynastic seat, with its tomb features statues
moats, towers, and battlements, and reliefs by Nicola
looms over the town center. Pisano, while the
Bronze statues of Nicolò III figures of angels and
and Borso d’Este, one of Nicolò’s saints are early works
reputed 27 children, adorn the by Michelangelo. The
medieval Palazzo del Comune. Torri degli Asinelli e
The d’Este summer retreat was Flagged medieval street with shady, arcaded buildings, Garisenda are
the Palazzo Schifanoia. Begun typical of central Bologna among the few
in 1385, it is famous for its Salone surviving towers of
dei Mesi, whose walls are s Bologna the 200 that once formed the
covered with murals by Cosmè * 385,000. k Marconi 9 km skyline of Bologna. Both were
Tura and other Ferrarese painters. (5 miles) NW. £ @ n Piazza begun in the 12th century.
Access is limited due to damage Maggiore 1/e (051-23 96 60). ( Fri & The Garisenda tower (closed
from the 2012 earthquake. Sat. _ Bologna Estate (Jun–Sep). to the public) leans some 3 m
Ferrara’s cathedral has an (10 ft), while the Asinelli tower
excellent museum, which Capital of Emilia-Romagna and has a 500-step ascent and offers
contains marble reliefs of the one of Italy’s most prosperous fine views.
Labours of the Months (late 12th cities, Bologna has a rich The Romanesque-Gothic
century), two painted organ cultural heritage, ranging from church of San Giacomo
shutters (1469) of St. George and medieval palaces and churches Maggiore, begun in 1267 but
the Annunciation by Tura, and to leaning towers. altered substantially since, is
the Madonna of the Pomegranate Celebrated in the Middle Ages visited mainly for the superb
(1408) by Sienese sculptor Jacopo for its university – believed to be Bentivoglio family chapel,
della Quercia (c.1374–1438). the oldest in Europe – Bologna decorated with frescoes by
came under papal rule in 1506 Lorenzo Costa (1460–1535).
+ Castello Estense and a large part of the city was The Bentivoglio tomb is among
Piazza Castello. Tel 0532-29 92 33. given over to monasteries and the last works of Jacopo
Open Tue–Sun (Mar–Jun & Sep: daily). convents. After the arrival of della Quercia.
Closed Dec 25. & 7 Napoleon’s occupying force in Bologna’s main art gallery, the
P Palazzo Schifanoia 1797, the university was moved Pinacoteca Nazionale, stands
Via Scandiana 23. Tel 0532-24 49 49. from its Catholic cradle in the on the edge of the university
Open Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. & Archiginnasio to a science district. Its two highlights are
building where Marconi later Perugino’s Madonna in Glory
studied. After unification the (c.1491) and Raphael’s famous
old city walls were demolished Ecstasy of St. Cecilia, painted
and an era of prosperity was around 1515.
ushered in. The cuisine of Bologna is
The two central squares of the among the finest in Italy. To
city, Piazza Maggiore and Piazza try the famous Bolognese
del Nettuno, are bordered to meat sauce you should order
the south by the churches of tagliatelle al ragù.
San Petronio and San Domenico.
The former ranks among the P Torri degli Asinelli e Garisenda
greatest of Italy’s brick-built Piazza di Porta Ravegnana.
medieval buildings. Founded Open daily. &
in 1390, its construction was E Pinacoteca Nazionale
halted halfway due to financial Via delle Belle Arti 56. Tel 051-420 94
constraints, and the planned 11. Open Tue–Sun. Closed May 1,
The medieval Castello Estense and central row of columns became Aug 16. & 7 ∑ pinacoteca
surrounding moat in Ferrara the eastern flank. Twenty-two bologna.beniculturali.it
For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3

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