Page 158 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Brittany

156  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

Port-Launay, on a bend in the
Aulne 2 km (1 mile) north-east
of Châteaulin, was once the
town’s port. With low houses
lining the riverbank, it offers a
timeless picture of Brittany.
In the 16th century, when
the plague was taking a heavy
toll, a chapel dedicated to
St Sebastian, patron saint of
healing, was built in St-Ségal,
3 km (2 miles) northwest of
Port-Launay. The calvary,
monumental entrance and
altarpiece are among the
finest in southern Finistère.
View from the summit of Ménez-Hom, with the Aulne river below 4 Notre-Dame-de-Rumengol
Châteaulin. Tel (02) 98 20 06 58.
7 Ménez-Hom 8 Châteaulin
Road map B2. West of Châteaulin via Road map B2. * 5,700. £ 9 Pleyben
the D887. k Quimper-Cornouaille. n Quai
Amiral Cosmao; (02) 98 86 02 11 Road map B2. * 3,800. n Place
A peak on the western edge of (Apr–Sep). ( Thu. _ Boucles de Charles-de-Gaulle; (02) 98 26 71 05.
the Montagnes Noires, Ménez- l’Aulne (late May/early Jun). _ Pardon (1st Sun Aug). ( Sat.
Hom (Menez-C’hom in Breton)
rises to a height of 330 m The Grand Prix des Boucles The parish of Pleyben (Pleiben
(1,083 ft). It overlooks the Baie de l’Aulne that is held here in Breton) is mentioned in
de Douarnenez and, in clear has made this town the Breton the 12th-century Cartulaire
weather, Pointe du Van and Cap capital of cycle racing. The de Landévennec (see p153).
de la Chèvre can be seen from Aulne is the most salmon- Pleyben – a conflation of “Iben”,
the summit. rich river in France, so the name of a Breton saint,
Sacred in Celtic lore, the Châteaulin (Castellin in Breton) and the prefix “ple” (see pp43)
mountain is also the land of also attracts large numbers of – was one of the parishes
the korrigans (evil spirits) and of anglers. Trips along the Aulne established when immigrants
the elves of Armorican popular on a restored riverboat, the from Britain arrived in the fifth
belief and literature. Wildlife Notre-Dame-de-Rumengol, to seventh centuries.
here includes Montagu’s harrier leave from here (May–Sep). The parish close consists
and warblers. The marshes of A short walk upriver leads to of a calvary – one of the finest
the Aulne estuary at the foot the Chapelle Notre-Dame, on in Brittany – an ossuary, a
of the mountain are home to a wooded hill on the left bank monumental entrance and
herons and ducks, and many of the Aulne. The church has a church. The latter, dedicated
species of plants. On 15 August a 15th-century calvary with a to St Germain of Auxerre, has
each year, during the Festival du depiction of the Last Judgment. two belfries. The one on the
Ménez-Hom in the commune of right is a Renaissance tower,
Plomodiern below, the sound of and the one on the left a
bombards and Breton bagpipes Gothic spire. Between them
(see pp28–9) fills the air. is a stair turret with pinnacles
The chapel in the hamlet and an ornate spire. The nave
of Ste-Marie-du-Ménez-Hom has a 16th-century painted
contains a beautiful altarpiece. ceiling with beams carved
There is also a parish close and painted with sacred and
and a 16th-century calvary secular scenes. The high altar,
here. In Trégarvan, about dating from 1667, is lit by
12 km (8 miles) away, an early 16th- and 17th-century
20th-century school has been stained-glass windows.
converted into the Musée de The 16th-century ossuary has
l’École Rurale en Bretagne. been converted into a museum
(open summer only) of the
E Musée de l’École Rurale history of Pleyben. The porz
en Bretagne ar maro (gate of the dead),
Trégarvan. Tel (02) 98 26 04 72. Open through which every deceased
Feb–Jun & Sep–Oct: Sun–Fri pm; Jul– Port-Launay, where the salmon-rich river member of the parish used to
Aug: daily. & attracts many anglers be carried, was built in 1725.
For hotels and restaurants see p227 and pp239–41

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