Page 189 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Brittany

MORBIHAN  187

The Imp of the High Seas
Éric Tabarly (1931–98), once a captain
in the French Navy, was the ultimate
yachtsman of the second half of the
20th century. Such eulogy would have
embarrassed this shy man, who would
face cameras with a modest smile. He
had a long list of victories to his name.
His first came in 1964, sailing in the Pen
Duick II, when he won the second Solo
Transatlantic Race, beating the British.
Tabarly became a French yachting Waxwork of John Paul II in the Musée de
legend in the process and, as the newly Cire, Ste-Anne-d’Auray
popular art of sailing gripped the nation,
Éric Tabarly aboard the Côte d’Or others were inspired to emulate him. w Ste-Anne-d’Auray
Road map D3. 7 km (4 miles) north of
Auray via the D17. * 1,950.
atmosphere has captivated £ Auray. n 9 Rue de Vannes; (02)
many painters. The steep, 97 24 34 94. ( Wed. _ Grand
narrow streets behind Pardon (late Jul).
the harbour are also
worth exploring. The second-greatest shrine
in France after Lourdes,
Environs and honoured by a visit from
Just north of Auray is the Pope John Paul II in 1999,
mag nificent Abbaye de Ste-Anne-d’Auray became a
Chartreuse. Inside is a black- major place of pilgrimage in
and-white marble mausoleum the 17th century.
with sculp ted reliefs by David St Anne, mother of the Virgin
d’Angers. At St Dégan, near Brech, Mary, appeared numerous
is the Ecomusée St Dégan. times to a humble ploughman,
Housed in a group of renovated Yves Nicolazic, whom she
farm buildings, its exhibits instructed to build a chapel.
recount early-19th-century When a statue was discovered
Timber-framed houses in the Quartier peasant life. The picturesque at the spot that she had indi-
St-Goustan, Auray fishing village of Le Bono lies cated, a church was built there.
6 km (4 miles) southeast of Auray. It was replaced by the present
Auray, in 1364, that brought an The view from the suspension basilica in 1872. The church
end to the War of the Breton bridge (1840) is spectacular. contains stained-glass windows
Succession (see p46) . depicting scenes from the life
The Église St-Gildas has a E Ecomusée St-Dégan of St Anne and of the
Renaissance doorway (1636) Venelle de l’Ecomusée. Tel (02) 97 57 66 ploughman. The Trésor
and contains a remarkable 00. Open Feb–Jun & Sep: Mon–Fri pm; (Treasury) in the cloisters
Baroque altarpiece (see p70) Jul–Aug: Mon–Fri, & Sat–Sun pm. & contains votive plaques,
made by a sculptor from Lavalle seascapes and model ships,
in 1657. Place de la République and statues dating from the
is surrounded by elegant 15th to the 19th centuries.
houses, including the Maison The Musée de Cire de
Martin and the Hôtel de l’Historial, opposite the basi-
Trévegat, both dating from lica, traces the origins of the
the 17th century, and the town town as a place of pilgrimage
hall, built in 1776. and describes the life of
From the belvedere and the Nicolazic. The town is also
promenade above the Loch, the site of the Monument
where terraced gardens are laid aux Morts, a memorial to the
out in tiers below the castle, 250,000 Bretons who died in
there is a beautiful view of the World War I.
river and the harbour.
A 17th-century stone bridge R Trésor de la Basilique
at the bottom of the town leads Tel (02) 97 57 68 80. Open daily pm.
to St-Goustan, which was once Closed Jan–Feb. &
Auray’s port. Here, medieval E Musée de Cire de l’Historial
timber-framed houses line the The 17th-century cloisters at 6 Rue de Vannes. Tel (02) 97 57 64 05.
quay, whose peaceful Ste-Anne-d’Auray Open Mar–Oct: daily. &

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