Page 113 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 9: Rugged Coastline and Deep Valleys 111

4 Locronan 6 Pointe du Raz
Finistère, Bretagne; 29180 Finistère, Bretagne; 29770
The imposing 15th-century church of The mammoth granite spur at the
Saint-Ronan, communal well and fine end of Cap Sizun culminates in 70-m
granite town houses on the Grande (230-ft) high cliffs which drop steeply
Place de l’Église were a backdrop in to the Mer d’Iroise. The headland’s
Roman Polanski’s 1979 film Tess. The flora and fauna – cormo rants, gorse
delightful square is crowded with and heath – are part of a coastal con-
cafés, bars and biscuit shops. Among serva tion programme. The best way to
them stands the former headquarters view Pointe du Raz, the adjacent Pointe
of the French East India Company and du Van and the eerily named Baie des
the Bureau Royal des Toiles which Trépassées separating them is from
oversaw the town’s thriving linen and one of the walking trails which
hemp industry from the 14th century. crisscross the windswept headlands.
Wander through the adjacent streets, ª Return to Lescoff (Rue des
from Rue des Charrettes with its attrac- Langoustiers) and continue on the
tive hou ses decorated with flowerpots, D784. After Audierne, take the second
to Rue Moal, the old weavers’ quarter. exit onto the D765 to Pont-Croix.
Rue Saint Maurice, the former crafts-
men’s street, leads to a viewpoint. 7 Pont-Croix
ª Take Rue du Prieuré and continue Finistère, Bretagne; 29790
straight ahead. At the roundabout Take a tour of the village through the
take the second exit and continue on paved medieval ruelles (alleyways),
the D7 to Douarnenez. such as the Grand Rue Chère which Above Scenic Pointe du Van by the Baie des
leads towards the river. The flower- Trépassées Left Boat in Porte de Peche du
covered stone walls and alcoves in Rosmeur, Douarnenez Below l’Arc de Triomphe
Rue des Courtils are part of an old châ- in l’Enclos Paroissial Saint-Suliau, Sizun
teau. The 13th-century church, Notre-
Dame de Roscudon, has intricate
stonework. For a better understanding
of Bigoudène folklore, stop by the EAT AND DRINK
Musée du Patrimoine (open daily Jul–
Aug, evenings Jun and Sep, Sun Oct–May) LOCRONAN
in the Marquisat, once home of the Crêperie Le Temps Passé inexpensive
noble seigneurs of Rosmadec. Finally This place stands among gorgeous
head to the Goyen river, a habitat for little stone cottages and serves savoury
galettes and sweet crêpes.
herons, egrets and other seabirds.
4 rue du Four, 29180; 02 98 91 87 29;
ª Continue on the D765, then turn
www.creperie-letempspasse.fr
right onto the D43 to Quimper. At the
Crêperie Ty Coz inexpensive
T-junction, turn right onto the D765
Excellent crêperie. Imaginative fillings
to Quimper. At the roundabout turn are on offer in this handsome
left onto the D100. At the next round- 17th-century village house with two
5 Douarnenez about, take the N165 to Concarneau. dining salons and a garden terrace.
Finistère, Bretagne; 29100 Exit onto the D70, then onto the D783 Place de l’Église, 29180; 02 98 91 70 79;
http://creperietycoz.com
Set out on the Chemin de la Sardine to Concarneau.
– the Sardine Trail marked by 17 DOUARNENEZ
bronze fish – to get a taste of the city’s Crêperie Tudal inexpensive
fish-canning history. Do not miss the This quaint 1950s crêperie and food
streets and houses around the old fish- store is a Breton jewel with daily
specialities. The crêpes are filled with
ing port, Porte de Peche du Rosmeur;
cheese, fruits and other sweet things.
the gardens, Gallo-Roman archaeo-
36 rue Jean Jaurès, 29100; 02 98 92 02
logy and views from the Belvedere 74; www.augouterbreton.com;
des Plomarc’h; and the Port-Musée closed Sun
(open daily Jul–Aug, Tue–Sun Apr–Jun and Le Bigorneau Amoureux moderate
Sep), a floating maritime museum. The restaurant’s name means “shellfish
ª Continue along the D7 to the Pointe in love” and the specialities are
potatoes with meat and seafood.
du Van. From there trace the waterfront
2 boulevard Richepin, Plage des
and turn left onto the D607. Turn right
Dames, 29100; 02 98 92 35 55;
into the Rue des Langoustiers and pass www.bigorneau-amoureux.com;
through Lescoff to reach Pointe du Raz. closed Mon
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40