Page 115 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 9: Rugged Coastline and Deep Valleys 113

miss the Gothic Église Notre-Dame-
de-l’Assomption on Place St-Michel,
and the Baroque-style Chapelle des
Ursulines on Avenue Aristide Briand.
ª Leave town on the D765; turn right
onto the N165 and pass through
Lanester. Continue on the D194E, into
the D326 and D194. Turn right onto
the D781 and continue to Port-Louis.
Take the Avenue de Kerbel from here
in the direction of “Citadelle Musée”
where there is space to park.
q Port-Louis Citadelle
Morbihan, Bretagne; 56290
Constructed at the end of a flat spit
of land on the Atlantic coast, the Above View of the port in Quiberon with the
stone citadel of Port-Louis is a monu- ª Take the D781 to Plouharnel and Château Turpault in the background Below
ment of military architecture. Flanked then the D768 to Quiberon taking in Rows of menhirs in the famous alignments
by two natural harbours, the 17th- the views of the Penthièvre isthmus, of Carnac
century bastion has views over the Penthièvre fort, villages of Kerhostin
bay of Lorient, which it was inten ded and St-Pierre-Quiberon, and the EAT AND DRINK
to defend. The fort was named after megaliths of Kerbourgnec.
French King Louis XIII, who ordered CONCARNEAU
its construction. Work on it began in e Quiberon Le Buccin expensive
1591 under the direc tion of Spanish Morbihan, Bretagne; 56170 In an alley, this restaurant serves
architect Cristobal de Rojas, lending At the tip of the Presqu’Île de succulent seafood and meat dishes.
the building some features of Quiberon isthmus, Quiberon is a 1 rue Duguay-Trouin, 29900;
Andalusian forts. Head to the dun- mishmash of modern beach resort 02 98 50 54 22
geons where the Musée National and old-time fishing village in a QUIMPERLÉ
de la Marine (open daily, closed Tue splendid sea setting. Walk through the Le Bistro de la Tour moderate
Sep–Apr, closed mid-Dec–Jan) chron- pedes trian zones of the city, then The menu here specializes in Breton
icles the history of Port-Louis; there along the waterfront boulevard, seafood, cheese and meat.
2 rue Dom Morice, 29300; 02 98 39 29
is also an Arsenal Room, Powder taking in the Mairie, the Église Notre-
58; www.hotelvintage.com; closed Sat
Magazine Room and exhibitions Dame de Locmaria and the colourful
lunch, Sun, Mon
on ocean rescue. houses of Port Maria, and views from
ª Continue on the D781 towards Port Haliguen marina onto Quiberon AROUND ALIGNEMENTS DE
Quiberon and then Carnac. Watch for Bay. The Beg Er Lan hill is home to the CARNAC
the signs to several sites with align- Anglo-Medieval Château Turpault La Côte moderate–expensive
ments between Erdeven and Ste-Barbe. and offers stunning panoramic views. This place offers refined Breton food
such as Camembert with cumin.
ª Head to the Gare Maritime at Port Kermario, 56340; 02 97 52 02 80;
w Alignements de Carnac Maria, from where car-ferries depart www.restaurant-la-cote.com; closed
Morbihan, Bretagne; 56340 for Belle-Île-en-Mer. Sat lunch, Sun evening, Mon
The famous Carnac alignments –
rows of megalithic standing stones –
are seen in several fields over some
4 km (2 miles) around Carnac. In
all there are about 3,000 menhirs
(Breton for “long rock”) up to 6 m
(20 ft) high. While the big fields of
align ments – Kerlescan, Le Menec,
Le Pett Menec and Kermario – can
only be visited in peak months on
a guided tour, the smaller fields in
Sainte-Barbe and Kerzhero can be
easily explored independently. The
6,000-year-old align ments served a
religious function – indicating the
way to a sacred enclosure – while
the dolmens were linked to burials.