Page 116 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

114 BACK ROADS FRANCE

r Le Palais t Sauzon
Morbihan, Bretagne; 56360 Morbihan, Bretagne; 56360
The old city gateways and ramparts Sauzon’s colourful cottages are
of La Palais are threaded with stacked up the hillside from the fishing
gardens – a virtual forest of elms, port, where café chairs mingle with
acacia, willows, chestnuts and ash piles of fishing nets and crayfish pots.
trees – and the bike paths which Between the green- and red-tipped
pass through them continue inland, dazzling white lighthouses at the
or along the coast. Down at the port entry to the harbour, the marina is full
visitors can stroll the quays between of bobbing leisure boats and fishing
the pubs and fishermen’s cottages. vessels. Stroll inland past the Bassin
Grafted onto a headland above the de Pen-Prad and catch the dusk
Above Bright flowers, Pointe des Poulains port of Le Palais, the Citadelle Vauban views back over the town and port.
(open daily Jul–Mar), a castle fortified in Head up the steep Rue du Port Vihan
VISITING BELLEÎLEENMER 1683 by France’s leading military and veer off to the right along the
engineer, presides over Belle-Île’s coastal track towards the Pointe du
Ferry Information capital. Now privately owned, it Cardinal for incredible views over the
In summer and autumn regular car and houses a history museum and its wooded hills and the ocean with its
passenger ferries link Gare Maritime at
Port Maria in Quiberon with Le Palais. ramparts are used as a fantastic chain of deep water bays.
There are far fewer boats between outdoor stage for summer concerts, ª From the D30 turn right into the
Quiberon and Sauzon. Winter crossings exhibitions and theatre performances. Route de l’Apothicairerie and turn right
are also less frequent. Reservation is ª Take the D30 for Sauzon. onto the D25 for Pointe des Poulains.
mandatory for car crossings.
www.compagnie-oceane.fr
y Pointe des Poulains
WHERE TO STAY
Morbihan, Bretagne; 56360
SAUZON The Pointe des Poulains is likened to a ship’s bow projecting into the
Hôtel Le Cardinal ocean. The sheer cliffs and serrated rocks have been shaped by ero-
inexpensive–moderate sion into needles called “Polenn” in Breton. This was fancifully trans-
This contemporary residence has an lated to French as the Pointe des Poulains, meaning “point of the foals”.
ocean-liner design with sea views.
Port Bellec, 56360; 02 97 31 61 60;
www.hotel-cardinal.fr
A 30-minute walking tour designated paths for people to stroll
AROUND AIGUILLES DE PORT From the large parking area at the around. The cliff-edged, sea-sculpted
COTON entry to the point, join the trail which promontory is an important natural
Hôtel La Désirade heads to the Île des Poulains 1. The site. The medley of flora, fauna and
moderate–expensive islet with the lighthouse Phare des landscapes in this protected site
The 32 rooms of the hotel are in Poulains 2 at its tip is isolated from includes schist rocks, coastal meadows
cottages and have cool, marine decor.
Le Petit Cosquet, Bangor, 56360; 02 97 the mainland during extremely high and heather and a large variety of
31 70 70; www.hotel-la-desirade.com; tides. For the rest of the time, it forms marine birds. The fragile and eroded
closed mid-Nov–Mar a concave sandy beach, with habitat is in the midst of a coastal
rehabilitation project and it is impor-
tant to stick to the marked trails. The
paths to the light house intersect with
Île des Poulains those heading down the coast.
Once occupied by a camp of
Neolithic Celts, the area is dominated
Phare des Poulains 0 metres 250
by cushion-shaped lumps of vege-
0 yards 250 ta tion dotted with many wild and
aro matic flowers, including pink
heather and gorse. On the cliffside,
the sea spray is a catalyst for special
Sarah Bernhardt
Museum vegetation: oval-leafed sea lavender
ATLANTIC and salt-loving plants such as
OCEAN
saltwort. One plant, the deerhorn,
has even adapted to being trampled
upon and thrives in the most
RUE DES POULAINS
frequented zones.
Among the birds that can be seen
here are sea gulls, black-headed
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150