Page 114 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

112 BACK ROADS FRANCE

9 Pont-Aven
Finistère, Bretagne; 29930
Over a century after Paul Gauguin
sojourned here in the late 1800s and
cap tured its pastoral beauty, Pont-
Aven is still a living canvas. Wander
along the banks of the Aven from the
Rue des Meuniéres to the Place
Royale to see the rows of riverside
dwellings which were once the
homes of royal officers and millers.
The Promenade Xavier Grall leads via
quays and canals to the Moulin de
Poulhouars mill, while Jardin
Excelmans is located at the end of
the port area. Other highlights are
the Église de Pont-Aven painted by
Above left Maison des Archers on Rue Dom Gauguin, the Musée des Beaux-Arts
Morice, Quimperlé Above right Belfry of the 8 Concarneau (open daily) and the local butter
walled city of Concarneau Below Creeper- Finistère, Bretagne; 29900 biscuits, galettes de Pont-Aven.
covered millhouse on the Aven river at Pont-Aven Between fishing and leisure ports ª Continue on the D783, passing
stand the seawalls, bastions and through Riec-sur-Belon to Quimperlé.
towers of Concarneau’s impres sive
ville close. This walled city was built in 0 Quimperlé
the 14th century on an islet in the Finistère, Bretagne; 29300
bay of Concarneau, inhabited by Ravaged in the 14th century during
WHERE TO STAY fishermen since pre historic times. the War of Succession battles over
The walled city is linked to the main- control of the Duchy of Brittany, this
CONCARNEAU land by old drawbridges. Inside, fortified town on the banks of the
Hôtel Kermor moderate visitors can discover its cobblestoned Odet river was rebuilt in the 17th
A wooden boat decor characterizes this passage ways and courtyards, parts century. From the humpbacked
hotel overlooking the beach. The hotel of the old moat, a belfry and sundial. medieval bridge, Pont Fleuri, head to
doubles as an art gallery. Within its walls there is a colombage the Art Nouveau covered market Les
37 rue des Sables Blancs, 29900; 02 98
97 02 96; www.hotel-kermor.com château which was once the resi- Halles and the abbatial Église Sainte-
dence of the military governor. Before Croix, both on Place Hervo, on the
Les Sables Blancs expensive
This hotel has contemporary decor in leaving visitors might want to see way to the former aristocratic neigh-
the style of an ocean liner. There is a the Musée de la Pêche (open daily bourhood of Rue Bremond d’Ars,
seaside bar and restaurant-lounge. Feb–Oct), a fishing museum. which is dubbed the Petit Marais. In
45 rue des Sables Blancs, 29900; 02 98 ª Take the D783 in direction of Pont- Rue Dom Morice is the town’s oldest
50 10 12; www.hotel-les-sables-blancs. Aven. Parking in the centre during high building. To its left is the 1550 Maison
com
season can be difficult; park wherever des Archers,which now holds tempo-
PONT AVEN there is space and walk to the centre. rary exhibitions. Visitors should not
La Chaumière Roz-Aven moderate
This hotel offers cosy rooms in a
cottage on the banks of the Aven river.
11 quai Théodore Botrel, 29900; 02 98
06 13 06; www.hotelpontaven.online.fr
QUIMPERLÉ
Hotel Vintage moderate
The ten spacious rooms feature
frescoes by contem porary artists.
20 rue Brémond d’ars, 29300; 02 98 35
09 10; www.hotelvintage.com
AROUND ALIGNEMENTS DE
CARNAC
Hotel Tumulus moderate–expensive
Housed in a turreted white mansion
facing Quiberon bay, this hotel has
23 large rooms and suites.
Chemin du Tumulus, 56340; 02 97 52
08 21; www.hotel-tumulus.com
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150