Page 117 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 9: Rugged Coastline and Deep Valleys 115

warblers and purple herons. Chimney
swallows nest in the sheltered cliffs;
there are plenty of sparrows – pipit
maritime and wheatears visit from
Africa during spring and summer.
Larger birds can be sighted if visitors
leave the most commonly trodden
paths around the lighthouse and
extend their walk along the coast.
Either way visitors may choose to
finish the walk with a visit to the Sarah
Bernhardt Museum 3 (open daily,
Apr–Sep), the “Villa des Cinq Parties du Above left Citadelle Vauban above the port of
Monde” dedicated to the flamboyant conservation work here aims to Le Palais Above right Rocks jutting out of the
French actress who fell in love with promote the growth of beach grass, Atlantic Ocean, Port Coton
the wild ness of Belle-Île on her first blue thistle, dunal cloves and other
visit in 1894 and built a home on the vege tation which help anchor the
EAT AND DRINK
Pointe des Poulains. The visit is guided dunes in place. The floral diversity is
with a narration by contem porary boosted by mineral rich sands. Within
SAUZON
French actress Fanny Ardant. From the the dunes there are hawthorns, rare
museum walk back to the car park. orchid species, burnet roses and Café de la Calé moderate
This port side bistro, specializes in
ª Return and continue along the D25. blood-red sanguine geraniums.
oysters and other fish dishes.
On the way is another amazing coastal ª Return to the D25, turn right and Quai Guerveur, 56360; 02 97 31 65 74;
forma tion, l’Apothicairerie – turn right continue until the intersection with www.cafedelacale.pagecom.fr; closed
into the D30 and there is parking just the D190; turn right following the Oct-Mar
after the village of Kerguerc’h. Further signs to Port Coton.
AROUND AIGUILLES DE
along the D25, on the right (between PORT COTON
two megalithic standing stones) there i Aiguilles de Port Coton La Désirade Restaurant
is a road sign posted towards Plage de Morbihan, Bretagne; 56360
moderate–expensive
Donnant. Further along, turn left into The beauty of Aiguilles de Port The menu revolves around fresh
a minor road which heads downhill to Coton, a chain of rocky teeth jutting produce from the market and the sea.
a large car park. out of the ocean, was cap tured by Le Petit Cosquet, Bangor, 56360; 02 97
31 70 70; www.hotel-la-desirade.com;
Claude Monet in several of his closed mid-Nov–Feb
u Plage de Donnant paintings. When the sea is whipped
Morbihan, Bretagne; 56360 up by storms, the rocks sit in a mass Castel Clara Hotel Spa expensive
From its cliff-top setting, the modern,
Donnant beach is set in a deep of foam which looks like cotton wool
castle-shaped hotel-restaurant has
recession between headlands and – hence the name of the port. Time views over the port of Goulphar.
hemmed in by high sand dunes. The the visit with the open ing hours of Evening menus include spicy seafood
dunes were formed 2,000 years ago, the 87-m (285-ft) high lighthouse, and lobster dishes. Book for a thalasso
when there was a small drop in sea the Grand Phare de Kervilahouen treatment and lounge around the pool
until dinner.
levels, leaving exposed sandy (open 2–4pm daily Jul–Aug). Climb its Port-Goulphar, Bangor, 56360; 02 97
stretches which resemble seabed 213 granite steps to get an amazing 31 84 21; www.castel-clara.com;
topography. Ongoing coastal view over the whole of Belle-Île. closed mid-Nov–mid-Feb
DAYTRIP OPTIONS Take the D7 to Châteaulin, continue on Take the D781 to Plouharnel. Then take
For a day trip from Douarnenez, the the D770 to Le Faou, then the D42 the D768 to pass by the Penthièvre
Parc Naturel Régional d’Armorique is towards Montagne and Roc Trévézel. isthmus and Kerhostin.
an ideal option. From Carnac, the A possibility for the return is to Surf and sand
wild coast of the Presqu’ile Quiberon continue in a loop through the park
Donnant beach u offers great
is a good choice and from Belle-Île on the D764, to Commana and Sizun,
surfing. Follow up with a visit to the
head to the beach for the day to sun, then return to Le Faou on the D18. Aiguilles de Port Coton i.
surf and experience nature.
Quiberon waterfront Access is via the D25. There is a signed
Hills and villages Plage de Penthièvre near Quiberon turnoff to Donnant Plage on a small
Walk, mountain-bike or horse-ride e is a favourite for picnics and swim- road situated between two megaliths.
on the hills and jagged cliffs in the ming. Later in the day, stroll around Continue along the D25 and turn right
morning and visit the beautiful Le the waterfront of Quiberon, stopping at the intersection with the D190,
Faou 3 while returning. at some of the boutiques on the way. towards Port Coton.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40