Page 135 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 11: Slopes of Gold 133

4 Châteauneuf-en-Auxois in AD 873. Traditionally available only
Côte d’Or, Bourgogne; 21320 in aniseed flavour, the candy now
Looming over the countryside from comes in many varieties, including
a rocky outcrop, the feu dal castle organic ones.
which gives its name to the village ª Continue along the D9, and turn
is a natural stronghold. Visit its left onto the D10, towards Alise-Sainte-
dun geons, frescoed chapel and Reine. Follow the sign via Chemin des
residen ces. Then stroll up the steep Fouilles to the excavation on the hilltop.
main street to the Église Saint-
Jacques. Follow the signs to the 6 Fouilles d’Alésia
Belvedere for views over the country- Côte d’Or, Bourgogne; 21150
side of Châteauneuf, and the Excavations of the Gallo-Roman
lake, Réservoir de Panthier, in settlement of Alesia on the top of
the neigh bouring village of Mont-Auxois show evidence of 2,000
Vandenesse-en-Auxois. years of settlement from prehistory
ª From the bottom of the village through to Julius Caesar’s times. The
turn right onto the D977bis, pass oppidum, the elevated fortress, was
through Commarin, turn left onto the one of the largest in Western Europe.
D114 then right onto the D108M and On the standard unguided visit (open
right again onto the D16L after daily Feb–mid-Nov) wander at will
driving underneath the motorway. around the vestiges of the 1st- to
Pass through Aubigny-lès-Sombernon, 4th-century town. It is here that the
and take the D905, turn left onto the siege of Alesia took place and Above Multicoloured tile roofs of the Hôtel-
D9h and left again onto the D9 all the children will love the special visits Dieu in Beaune Left Pretty town of Flavigny-
way to Flavigny-sur-Ozerain. with actors playing characters such sur-Ozerain Below Bottles of grands crus
as Vercingétorix, the Gallic tribal chief on display in Aloxe-Corton
who led the revolt against Caesar.
The Muséo Parc, an inter pretation
centre, discovery trail and arch-
aeological museum, opened
progressively throughout 2010–11. EAT AND DRINK
ª Leave Alise-Sainte-Reine on Rue
Vercingétorix and turn left onto the BEAUNE
D954, pass through Venarey-les- Le Bistrot Bourguignon
Laumes, and take the D905. Turn right inexpensive–moderate
before Montbard onto the D32. A traditional bar à vins with an extensive
wine list. It serves regional food and
hosts Saturday night jazz concerts.
Hospital Riches 8 rue Monge, 21200; 03 80 22 23 24;
An inventory of 5,000 objects in closed Sun
Beaune’s Hôtel-Dieu includes furni-
Le Comptoir des Tontons
ture, tapestries, paintings, pharmacy moderate–expensive
jars and sculptures. It was drawn up Excellent classic cuisine with organic
in 1501 by Nicolas Rolin, Chancellor produce. Book ahead for dinner.
to the Duke of Beaune. Hôtel-Dieu 22 rue du Faubourg, 21200; 03 80 24 19
5 Flavigny-sur-Ozerain literally means “God’s Hall” and is 64; www.lecomptoirdestontons.com
the old French word for a hospital.
Côte d’Or, Bourgogne; 21150 Loiseau des Vignes
moderate–expensive
Julius Caesar camped on this site in
French country staples are served in a
52 BC during the siege of Alesia, which
warm bistro ambience; this is also an
took place on the other side of the incredi ble place for wine tasting.
Ozerain river. The town was named 27 rue Maufoux, 21200; 03 80 24 12 06;
after the feudal landowner, Flavinius. www.hotel-cep-beaune.com; closed
Sun, Mon and Feb
Enter through the 15th-century gate,
the Porte du Bourg, and walk to the FLAVIGNYSUROZERAIN
Benedictine Abbaye Saint-Pierre, La Grange de Flavigny
which has an 8th-century Carolingian inexpensive–moderate
crypt. The village’s houses and shops Sample the produce of a dozen local
farmers in this old stone barn.
were a backdrop for the 2000 film
Place de l’Église, 21150; 03 80 96 20 62;
Chocolat. The true town sweet,
www.ferme-auberge-la-grange-
however, is the anis first made by flavigny21.fr; open Tue–Sun lunch Jul–
Benedictine monks for Pope John VIII Aug, Sun lunch Sep–Jun
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40