Page 137 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 11: Slopes of Gold 135

9 Vézelay
Yonne, Bourgogne; 89450
Much of Vézelay’s World Heritage glory comes down to the cultural
and religious history linked with its role as the holy colline éternelle
(eternal hill). The town, stretched out on a rocky plateau, is packed
with Renaissance, Romanesque and Gothic treasures. The surround-
ing countryside is like a large checked tablecloth of crops, fields and
forested valleys. Vézelay is to be visited strictly on foot.

A 90-minute walking tour Viollet-le-Duc 4, loca ted along side
Set out from the car park on the the basilica in a former monk’s dormi-
Route de Saint-Père, which is a short tory, has exhibits explaining the
walk from the main gate way, the restoration pro cess.
Porte du Barle et Citerne 1. Go up Behind the Place de la Basilique
Rue Sainte-Étienne and on the right are the old city walls, with an incred-
is the tourist office where a small ible view over the surround ing
but clearly marked map can be country side from the Terrasse de
picked up. Further up there is a fork l’Ancien Château 5. Return to the
of two narrow streets: take Rue Saint- Place de la Basilique, and conti nue
Pére, which leads past the Hôtel de past the cathe dral to the Ancien
Ville 2 (signposted Marie), now a Couvent des Ursulines 6. From here, Above Ancient fortified gateway, Vézelay
library with a Gothic interior, and the descend the Chemin de la Cordelle
turret and clock of Tourelle Gaillon. to reach Porte Sainte-Croix 7, the EAT AND DRINK
At the crest of the hill is the gateway on the northern ramparts.
Basilique Sainte-Marie Madeleine 3, Turn right onto the ram part pathway VÉZELAY
dominating the hilltop Place de la and stroll back around the city walls Le Dent Creuse
Basilique. Built between the 9th and to the southern ramparts passing inexpensive–moderate
Grills, salads, pizzas and local produce
12th centuries, the cathedral is consi- under the tower, Tour des Colombs 8. are the highlights here.
dered a master piece of Romanesque Stop and take in the views over the Place du Champ de Foire, 89450; 03 86
art and archi tecture. It is a mass of valley and the Cure river before head- 33 36 33; www.restaurant-vezelay.fr
stone spires, carved figur ines and ing back to the car park on Route Marc Meneau expensive
pillars engraved with biblical scenes. de Saint-Père. Marc Meneau is a grand chef cuisinier
Damaged by successive battles and ª Take the D957 to reach Saint-Père. and culinary author. The menu focuses
on the verge of collapse, the basillica Here turn right onto the D958. Pass on natural food and its innate flavours.
Its bistro is a less expensive option.
was restored by architect Eugene Domecy-sur-Cure, and follow the
Route de Vézelay, Saint-Père, 89450; 03
Viollet-le-Duc in the mid-19th signs for the turn off to the Château de 86 33 39 10; www.marc-meneau-es
century. The Musée de l’Oeuvre Bazoches, which is on the left. perance.com; closed mid-Jan–mid-Mar
ROUTE D’ASQUINS CHEMIN DE RONDE
0 metres 200 Northern Ramparts Porte Sainte-Croix
0 yards 200 Chemin de la Cordelle
RUE DE LA PORTE NEUVE RUE DE L’ARGENTERIE RUE DU MOULIN À V ENT Terrasse de

Basilique Sainte-
Ancien Couvent
Marie Madeleine
des Ursulines
COURSE GUILLER RUE DE L’ÉCOLE Hôtel la Basilique Musée de l’Ancien Château
RUE SAINT-PIERRE
Place de
de Ville
l’Oeuvre
Viollet-le-Duc CHEMIN DE RONDE N
RUE DES BOCHARDS
DE FOIRE RUE SAINTEÉTIENNE Tour des Southern Ramparts
Colombs
PLACE DU CHAMP
ROUTE DE CLAMECY Porte du Barle CHEMIN DE RONDE SUD CHEMIN DE LA CORDERIE
et Citerne
D951
D951
ROUTE DE SAINT-PÈRE
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40