Page 136 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

134 BACK ROADS FRANCE

Above left Choir of the Basilique Sainte-
Marie Madeleine, Vézelay Above right 7 L’Abbaye de Fontenay 8 Noyers
Romanesque Abbaye de Fontenay Below Côte d’Or, Bourgogne; 21500 Yonne, Bourgogne; 89310
right Town of Vézelay seen from a distance One of Europe’s oldest surviving This medieval village encircled by the
Cistercian monasteries, this Serein river is a delightful stop. Stroll
Romanesque abbey was founded by between its evocatively named
VISITING VÉZELAY St Bernard in 1118 in a marshy valley squares – from Place de la Petite
just outside Montbard. The monas- Étape au Vin to Place du Marché au
Tourist information
Rue Saint-Étienne, 89450; 03 86 33 23 tery has an impeccably preserved Blé where the wheat market was
69; www.vezelaytourisme.com; open church, cloister, council room, forge held. Also of interest is the crafts-
daily Jun-Sep. and monks’ dormitory, which offer men’s guild house, the Maison du
insights into the Cistercian way of life. Compagnonnage, with its Gothic
Parking
There are two to three paid car parks Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage pinnacles and carved pillar-tops.
near the city walls. Site in 1981, the abbey was a back- Visitors will also enjoy a trip to the
drop for scenes in the 1990 Gérard town hall on Place de l’Hôtel de Ville
WHERE TO STAY Depardieu film Cyrano de Bergerac. and the salt loft and salt tax collec-
Its French and English gardens were tor’s house on Place du Grenier à Sel.
VÉZELAY redesigned by the British landscape Finally leave the old city gates and
Le Compostelle inexpensive architect Peter Holmes in 2004. take a walk around the 2-m (7-ft)
This two-star small, simple hotel has The abbey is open daily year round thick ramparts from tower to tower.
wonderful valley views, 18 attic and and there are hour-long guided
garden rooms, a terrace on the main ª Take the D86, pass through
town square, and offers free Wi-Fi. tours, special themed visits for adults Massangis and turn right onto the
Place du Champ de Foire, and children, and many concerts and D11. At Joux-la-Ville take the D32
89450; 03 86 33 28 63; cultural events held here. then the D9 and pass Voutenay-sur-
www.lecompostellevezelay.com
ª Head back to the D905 and turn Cure. Continue on the D606 and turn
L’Esperance Marc Meneau expensive right to pass through Montbard and right for Vézelay onto the D951 and
In this intimate, personal hotel, 2 km then left onto the D956 to Noyers. park on the Route de Saint-Père.
(1 mile) east of Vézelay, fine china meets
contem porary art. There is an English
salon-library, a private bar and exqui-
site gardens. The Classical and Modern
rooms and suites are scattered between
the main building and the old mill.
Route de Vézelay, Saint-Père, 89450;
03 86 33 39 10; www.marc-meneau-
esperance.com; closed mid-Jan–
mid-Mar
AROUND VÉZELAY
Les Deux Ponts inexpensive
Seven simple but pleasant rooms are
located in this handsome Burgundy
stone hotel with a restaurant, in the
pretty village of Vauban.
1 route de Vézelay, Vauban 89450; 03 86
32 31 31; www.lesdeuxponts.com
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150