Page 168 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

166 BACK ROADS FRANCE

1 Puy de Sancy
Puy-de-Dôme, Auvergne; 63240
A cable car and a half-hour walk will bring visitors to the Puy de
Sancy, the highest summit in central France at 1,885 m (6,184 ft),
with a terrific panoramic view over the Massif Central. In a ravine
down below, at an altitude of 1,350 m (4,429 ft), two little springs
appear – the Dore and Dogne. They are soon joined by other
tributaries and give rise to a new river, the Dordogne. The northern
and southern slopes of the Puy de Sancy offer excellent winter
sports opportunities drawing in many enthusiasts every year.

A one-hour walking tour téléphérique (cable car), one of the first
Climbing the Puy de Sancy has to be installed in France in the 1930s
been a favourite excursion since for the newly popular sport of skiing.
the 19th century. The visitors who From the Station du Téléphérique 1
flocked to the Mont-Dore spa to the cable car operates all year round,
take the curative waters revelled in every day, but is sometimes closed for
the romantic experience of towering maintenance for 3–4 weeks in April. In
Above Rocky ravine where the Dore and mountains. French novelist George 10 minutes it ascends to an altitude of
Dogne meet Sand was one such visitor, describing 1,780 m (6,126 ft) – a dramatic ride as
the quest for the “profound harmony visitors swing up the hillside with tiny
and solitude of nature”. But even goats and cows snoozing below.
back then it was often too crowded Near where the cable car drops
in summer and Sand preferred spring visitors off, there is a restaurant 2
or autumn, “when the damp grass offering drinks and brasserie food
smells good, the flowers are scattered with fine views from the terrace. From
with diamonds of water, and the the res taurant, a further half-hour walk
cows gleam in the sun, like a Dutch will bring walkers to the summit 3.
paint ing”. Today’s visitors would do The path is well marked, and wooden
well to pay heed to her advice. steps make the going easy. Enjoy the
Formerly, visitors walked or rode magni ficent view from the summit
on mules to the foot of the mountain. over the volcanic cones, icy lakes and
VISITING PUY DE SANCY
Now it is possible to ascend using the wooded valleys of the Auvergne. The
Tourist Information
Place de la Bourse, Clermont-Ferrand, Mont-Dore
63038; 04 73 42 22 50; www.planet D983
epuydedome.com; www.sancy.com
Station du Télépherique
Parking Puy de
Drive south on the D983 from Le Cliergue
Mont-Dore and park at the foot of the
Station du Téléphérique.
WHERE TO STAY

LE MONTDORE
Le Puy Ferrand moderate Dore
Located below the Puy de Sancy, Dogne Chemim des Cretes
this mountain hotel offers panoramic
views, wood fires and an indoor Puy Redon
swimming pool.
Le Mont-Dore, 63240; 04 73 65 18 99;
www.hotel-puy-ferrand.com
Restaurant
AROUND LE MONTDORE
Chemim des Cretes
La Lauzeraie moderate
A cosy, friendly chambre d’hote
outside La Bourboule, 7 km (4 miles)
west of Le Mont-Dore, this hotel has 0 metres 300 Puy de Sancy
a Jacuzzi and hammam for guests. Summit
577 chemin de la Suchère, La 0 yards 300
Bourboule, 63150; 04 73 21 62 85 ;
www.lalauzeraie.net
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150