Page 205 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 18: The Pyrenees: End to End 203

Left Horses grazing near the Col de Soulor
for Arette-Pierre-St-Martin on the a St-Jean-Pied-de-Port mountain pass Top Chapelle de Piétat above
D132. At the Col du Soudet just before Pyrénées-Atlantiques, Aquitaine; 64220 the Vallée d’Argelès Above Spa town of
Arette-Pierre-St-Martin, turn right The name, translated literally Eaux-Bonnes
onto the D113 for Ste-Engrâce. “St-Jean-Below-the-Pass”, explains
the function of the town: it was
p Église de Ste-Engrâce founded by the kings of Navarra in
Pyrénées-Atlantiques, Aquitaine; 64560 the 12th century as a frontier town.
The small 11th-century Romanesque Nowadays, as it was then, it is busy
church of Ste-Engrâce has a carved with pilgrims following the Chemin
portal and carved capitals inside. In de Saint-Jacques – the route to the
the cemetery are some ancient shrine of Santiago de Compostela –
discoid Basque gravestones. Behind who stop here for the night before
the church, the valley side is sliced crossing the Pyrenees into Spain.
by a white gorge, the Gorges du The scallop-shell symbol of the EAT AND DRINK
Ehujarré. Down the road there is pilgrimage can be seen everywhere
another, smaller, more accessible in the town. STSAVIN
gorge, the Gorges de Kakouetta, a ª Leave St-Jean on the D918, towards
Los Viscos moderate–expensive
managed beauty spot. Bayonne. Turn off left (Km 37) for A celebrated restaurant with rooms in
ª Continue on the D113 from Ste- Itxassou and follow the signs for this charming village, Los Viscos’s
Engrâce and the Gorges de Kakouetta Espelette on the left. menu is built around the cuisine of the
south west, particularly the local region
to meet the D26. Turn left for Larrau.
of Bigorre. Choice ingredients include
After passing through Larrau, turn Cols of the Tour de France black pork, Trébons onions, foie gras
right onto the D19 towards St-Jean- The arduous climbs to the high confit and fresh mountain herbs.
Pied-de-Port. This goes over the mountain passes (cols) of the 1 rue Lamarque, 65400; 05 62 97 02 28;
wooded Col de Bagargui at 1,327 m Pyrenees provide some of the most www.chateauxhotels.com/Le-Viscos-
popular stages of the legendary 2652; closed Sun dinner and Mon; Jan
(4,354 ft), colonized by Les Chalets
Tour de France cycle race. The most
d’Iraty, a rural and ski resort built of STJEANPIEDDEPORT
challenging cols – all on the route
huts shaped like upturned boats. After
of this drive – include Pèyresourde, Le Relais de la Nive
meeting the D18 next to a lake, turn Portet d’Aspet, Aspin, Tourmalet inexpensive–moderate
right for St-Jean-Pied-de-Port, cross- and Aubisque. Many amateur Picturesquely overhanging the river
ing over the Col de Burdinkurutcheta cyclists relish the challenge of get- between the new bridge and the old,
(1,135 m/3,724 ft). In St-Jean-le-Vieux, ting to the top of these cols,where this brasserie serves meals, crêpes
and sandwiches.
they get a “passport” stamped to
turn left on to the D933 for St-Jean- 2 place du Général de Gaulle, 64220;
commemo rate their achievement.
Pied-de-Port. 05 59 37 04 22
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40