Page 206 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

204 BACK ROADS FRANCE

Ste-Étienne, with three rows of
galleries in typical Basque style and
an altarpiece showing the stoning of
Ste-Étienne. Its ceme tery has tradi-
tional Basque discoid tomb stones.
ª From Espelette follow the signs
back onto the D918 and continue
towards Ainhoa. Turn left onto the
D20 for Ainhoa.
d Ainhoa
Pyrénées-Atlantiques; 64250
Little more than a single street,
Ainhoa is nonetheless a delight to
walk around. The town was founded
during the 12th century as a stop
on the pilgrims’ route to Santiago
de Compostela in Spain, but much
Above Small château in Espelette of it dates from the 17th and 18th
Below left Brightly-painted balcony of a s Espelette centuries, having being rebuilt
Basque house in Ainhoa Below right Lively Pyrénées-Atlantiques; 64250 after the Thirty Years’ War. Its stout,
beach in St-Jean-de-Luz Espelette is synonym ous with the well-kept, colombage Basque houses
pepper it produces and many of are all orientated east-southeast and
the house façades in this attractive many have their date of con struction
Basque town are adorned with red and the name of their first inhabitant
peppers hanging to dry in the sun. embossed on the lintel. Ainhoa, like
The piment d’Espelette has been Espelette, has a Basque-style
grown in the area since the 17th galleried church.
century and is protected by its own ª Go back to the roundabout at the
appellation d’origine protégée. It is entrance of Ainhoa and turn left
mildly hot and can be used judi- towards Sare on the D305. Next, turn
LA RHUNE RAILWAY ciously as a substitute for black right on D4. Cross the river and turn
pepper. Espelette’s 14th-century left, still on the D4, for Sare, which, like
Departures every 35 minutes or so château now houses the town hall Ainhoa, is a pleasant town to stop and
between 9:30–11:30am and 2–4pm and the tourist office. Archaeological stroll in. Follow the signs from Sare
depending on number of passengers.
Col de Saint Ignace; 05 59 54 20 26; exca va tions around it have revealed towards St-Jean-de-Luz, continuing
www.rhune.com; open Mar–Nov vestiges of a fortress dating from the on the D4. The winding road will take
end of the Middle Ages. Another visitors up to the Col de St-Ignace and
highlight is the 16th-century Église to the next stop at La Rhune.
WHERE TO STAY
AROUND ESPELETTE
Domaine de Silencenia moderate
Just off the road at Louhossoa, 11 km
(7 miles) east of Espelette, this bed-
and-breakfast has a swimming pool
and a small lake in its grounds. There
are five cosy bedrooms, each indi vid-
ually deco rated and equipped with
a four-poster bed.
Louhossoa, 64250; 05 59 93 35 60;
www.domaine-silencenia.com
AROUND AINHOA
Ttakoinenborda inexpensive
This is a traditional 17th-century
farmhouse with four guest bedrooms
in the fields and woods near the lovely
town of Sare, about 9 km (5.5 miles)
west of Ainhoa. The home-made jams
and bread, served at breakfast, are not
to be missed..
Sare, 64310; 05 59 47 51 42;
www.chambredhotebasque.fr
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150