Page 244 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

242 BACK ROADS FRANCE

1 Saint-Tropez
Var, Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur; 83990
Boasting a reputation that precedes it by a mile, Saint-Tropez could
easily be shrugged off as the exclusive stomping ground of the
über-rich and ultra-famous. However, at heart it is a picturesque
fishing village which packs in surprises and activities for all its visitors.
Spend a day roam ing its enchanting alleys and it will be difficult not
to succumb to Saint-Tropez’s small-town charms.

A 90-minute walking tour the Axis powers in World War II.
For those visiting this pretty seaside The ramparts afford spectacular
town midsummer, it pays to start views over Saint-Tropez’s bay. After
strolling before le jet-set deem it time exploring the creepy dungeon cells,
to roll out of bed. Park at the western amble downhill along Montée de la
end of the charming Place des Citadelle. At the road’s first kink, step
Lices 1 and walk through the off onto the dirt trail that skirts the
square, turning left into Rue citadel’s outer walls. Head around the
Gambetta and then right into Rue corner for a breathtaking panorama
Miséricorde. Immediately past the east over the town’s seaside ceme-
entrance to Chapelle de la tery, where film director Roger Vadim,
Miséricorde 2, Rue Miséricorde of And God Created Woman fame, is
Above View over Saint-Tropez town and twists uphill, passing under the buried. Down below is the delightful
its bay church’s three 17th-century arch- Plage des Graniers 4.
ways. Follow the road’s left fork Retrace the route to Montée de
into Rue Aire du Chemin, lined with la Citadelle. Just before Place Forbin,
touristy restaurants, making a right make a sharp right onto Avenue
at the ever-popular Restaurant de Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, named
la Citadelle. after the famed author of The Little
Across Place Forbin, scramble Prince. A small plaque, dated 29 June
WHERE TO STAY
up the long, diagonal staircase to 2000, honours the 100th anniversary
La Citadelle 3 (open daily). A massive of Saint-Exupéry’s birth.
SAINTTROPEZ
defence system built during the early A dirt path cuts left downhill,
Le Colombier moderate–expensive 17th century, it was last occupied by running alongside an old stone wall
Located in a private cul-de-sac, this
tiny hotel is one of the town’s best-
kept secrets. Book well in advance to
Plage de la
snag one of their pretty pastel rooms. Fontanette PLACE RUE DE CAVAILLON Plage de
Pampelonne
In summer, breakfast in the flower- QUAI F. MISTRAL PLACE DU DE LA VUE
A VENUE ANTOINE DE SAINT-EXUPÉRY
filled garden is a must. REVELEN
Impasse des Conquêtes, 83990; 04 94 RUE DE LA PONCHE Pré des
97 05 31; closed mid-Nov–Feb RUE PETIT ST-JEAN RUE DE CAVAILLON Pêcheurs Plage des
Graniers
Pastis expensive 450 metres
Owned by a pair of British former QUAI JEAN JAURÈS RUE DU CÉPOUN SAN MARTIN RUE DU CLOCHER Place de
designers, Pastis’s nine rooms meld l’Ormeau RUE DE L’AÏOLI
antique furniture and avant-garde RUE DU
artworks. The result is a serene oasis Porte de la MARCHÉ
PLACE
5 minutes from the harbourside glitz. Poissonnerie RUE DE LA CITAD EL L E RUE AIRE DU CHEMIN FORBIN La Citadelle
It has its own private pool and there Place aux
Herbes
is free parking. QUAI SUFFREN RUE DES COMMERÇANTS
61 avenue du Général Leclerc, 83990;
04 98 12 56 50; www.pastis- RUE MISÉRICORDE
st-tropez.com Musée AVENUE PAUL SIGNAC MONTÉE DE LA CITADELLE
de l’Annonciade
PLAGE DE PAMPELONNE Chapelle de
la Miséricorde
Tiki Hutte expensive RUE FRANÇOIS SIBILLI
Simple seafront cabanas near the Plage RUE GEORGES CLÉMENCEAU RUE GAMBETTA
de Pampelonne’s trendiest beach clubs.
The area quiets down in the evening, MONTÉE GUY RINGRAVE
but hanging out on an exclusive patch RUE ÉTIENNE BERNY
of sand after a day of indulgence is
divine. Minimum stay of one week. BOULEVARD VASSEROT Place des 0 metres 100
Lices
Plage de Pampelonne, Ramatuelle, PLACE CARNOT
83350; 04 94 55 96 96; www.tiki-hutte. 0 yards 100
com; closed Nov–Mar
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150