Page 245 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France
P. 245

DRIVE 23: Vineyards of Provence  243


       across the open field of Pré des
       Pêcheurs. Swing right to check out
       Place de la Vue, a popular spot for
       artists, who set up their easels and
       paint the seascape beyond. The
       energetic can continue east along
       Rue de Cavaillon’s footpath, tracing
       the 12 km (7 miles) around Saint-
       Tropez’s cap to trendy Plage de
       Pampelonne. Take Place de la Vue’s
       small set of stairs down to Plage de
       la Fontanette 5. Visitors can get into
       their swimsuit and cool off with a
       quick dip in the Mediterranean.
        Rested and refreshed, follow the
       coastline westwards to Port des
       Pêcheurs, tucking back inland at the
       bustling Place du Revelen. Go through
       the arched walkway beneath Porte
       du Revelen, taking Rue Petit St-Jean             Above Charming Plage de Pampelonne on
       along to Place de l’Ormeau  6, a   2 Plage de Pampelonne  the Saint-Tropez peninsula Below
       serene square. Exit the square at its   Var, Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur; 83350   Passageway in the citadel of Saint-Tropez
       northwest corner, where quiet Rue   Turquoise waters gently lap the 5 km
       du Clocher leads to the buzz of Rue   (3 miles) of white sandy beach here.
       des Commerçants, lined with   Although it may appear a paradise
       bakeries, cafés and shops.  today, Plage de Pampelonne wit ness-
        Rue du Marché, the first right turn,   ed drama with the Allied landings in
       will lead to Place aux Herbes  7,   August 1944.
       which hosts a tiny but vibrant flower   The first beach bar, the trendy
                                                         VISITING SAINTTROPEZ
       and produce market (Tue–Sun morn-  Tahiti Plage, opened two years later
       ings), stocked with artisan cheeses,   and Pampelonne soon became a
                                                        Tourist Information
       lavender honey and plump olives.   pop ular naturist spot. Strip down   Quai Jean Jaurès, 83990; 08 92 68 48
       Between the square and the town’s   and dive in (Le Liberty and Neptune   28; http://sainttropeztourisme.com
       Vieux Port (Old Port), the Porte de la   are naturist beaches), or follow the
                                                        Parking
       Poissonnerie  8 is brimming with   cele brities to the famous Le Club 55.   There are two large car parks to the
       the day’s catch. Each morning,   Pampelonne’s 27 beach clubs are the   west of the port, the aptly named
       fishermen ply mounds of red mullet,   places to be seen in, attracting over   Parking du Port and Parking du
                                                        Nouveau Port. There is an additional
       sea bream and octopus to local   30,000 daily visitors in summer.
                                                        car park in Place des Lices. All are
       residents and top chefs alike.  ª Take Chemin des Moulins back to   within easy walking distance of the
        Art lovers can take a detour to    Route des Plages (D93). Turn left,   town centre. However, finding parking
       the far side of the Vieux Port to the   heading south along the D93 until the   during the high season is very difficult.
       former chapel that is now the Musée   first roundabout. Drive straight onto
       de l’Annonciade (open Wed–Mon, closed   D61 following signs for Ramatuelle.
       Nov). It houses treasures by Bonnard,             EAT AND DRINK
       Dufy, Signac and Derain. Walk down
       Rue François Sibilli back to the car             SAINTTROPEZ
       park at Place des Lices and grab a               Le Café inexpensive–moderate
       table at Le Café. Order a pastis, and try        The café offers classic southern French
       Provence’s favourite pastime, pétanque           dishes, including the town’s sweet-
                                                        tooth speciality, tarte tropézienne.
       – a set of boules can be borrowed
                                                        Le Café’s passion is pétanque.
       from the café for free.
                                                        Place des Lices, 83990; 04 94 97 44 69;
       ª Exit via Avenue du Général de                  www.lecafe.fr
       Gaulle (runs east of the port), which
                                                        La Ponche moderate–expensive
       becomes Avenue du 15 Aout 1944. Turn             Traditional Mediterranean recipes
       left onto the D93, known as Route des            mingle with playful, high-end
       Plages, and head south until reaching            gastronomy at La Ponche, just steps
                                                        away from the sandy stretch of Plage
       a left-turn indica tion onto Chemin des
                                                        de la Ponche.
       Moulins. Drive through the vineyards
                                                        3 rue des Remparts, 83990; 04 94 97
       to reach the car parks that line the             09 29; www.laponche.com; closed
       Plage de Pampelonne.                             Nov–mid-Mar
                                        Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40
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