Page 248 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

246 BACK ROADS FRANCE

VISITING THE ÎLE DE 8 Île de Porquerolles
PORQUEROLLES
Var, Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur; 83400
One of the three Îles d’Or, or Golden
Ferry Information
Frequent ferries ply the 20-minute Islands, Île de Porquerolles was
route between La Tour Fondue and Île bought by the French State in 1971
de Porquerolles. Ferries also serve the in a move to protect the island from
nearby Levant and Port Cros islands. rampant indus trial development.
Gare Maritime, La Tour Fondue,
Presque’Île de Giens, 83400; 04 94 58 Since then it has remained a blissful
21 81; www.tlv-tvm.com haven. Vehicles are banned; rent a
bike or stroll the dirt paths to sec-
Parking
Park on the mainland at La Tour Fondue. luded beaches, such as the pristine
For those planning to leave their car Plage de Nôtre-Dame. The island also
overnight during high season, it is best boasts several wine estates, including
to reserve a parking spot in advance. the all-organic Domaine de La
Courtade (open Mon–Fri), which
WHERE TO STAY
began operations in 1983 .
ª Drive back from the port along the
ÎLE DE PORQUEROLLES
D197. Then either take La Route du
Le Mas du Langoustier expensive Sel, which leads north between the sea
This place is a tropical paradise, and salt marshes, or continue on the
complete with secluded beaches and
a Michelin-starred restaurant. D197 through Hyères to take the A570
Île de Porquerolles, 83400; 04 94 58 30 west to the A57, merging with the A50, right onto the D559B, heading north.
09; www.langoustier.com which goes through a long tunnel at Make a left turn onto the D226, which
Toulon, the quickest way through leads directly to the car parks at the
SANARYSURMER
congested Toulon. Exit at junction 13, base of Le Castellet.
Hôtel de la Tour moderate
The second floor rooms at this portside taking the D26, which leads to the D11
hotel offer floor-to-ceiling sea views. south to Sanary-sur-Mer. 0 Le Castellet
24 quai du Général de Gaulle, Port de Var, Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur; 83330
Sanary, 83110; 04 94 74 10 10; www. 9 Sanary-sur-Mer The backdrop for director Marcel
sanary-hoteldelatour.com
Var, Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur; 83110 Pagnol’s 1938 film La Femme du
CASSIS Formerly a provincial port, tiny Boulanger, Le Castellet is incredibly
Maison°9 expensive Sanary-sur-Mer rose to international picturesque, with its pale stones and
Set amid vineyards, this 18th-century stardom in the 1930s. Refugees from 12th-century medieval streets. Peek
country home is now an elegant bed- Nazi Germany, including playwright through Le Trou de Madame, a portal
and-breakfast. Bertold Brecht and novelist Thomas in the ancient walls, for uninterrupted
9 rue du Docteur Yves Bourde, 13260; Mann, chose to adopt this town as views over the Bandol vine yards
04 42 08 35 86; www.maison9.net
their home. Sanary-sur-Mer was also below. Stop for a glass of rosé, or pick
Château de Cassis expensive home to Aldous Huxley, influential up craft items, such as hand made
This restored 8th-century castle offers
the finest views over Cassis. author of the futuristic novel Brave olive oil soap or wooden toys, from
Traverse du Château, 13260; 04 42 01 New World. These days, the colourful the local artisans.
63 20; www.chateaudecassis.com fishing boats, pastel façades and ª Go back down to the D559B and
sandy beaches make the town a head south. Make a right turn onto
Above Fishing boats with Château de Cassis pleasant stop. the D66, crossing over the A50 and
perched on the hill above Below La Tour Fondue, ª Take the D559 west. Just past the following signs for La Cadière d’Azur.
where ferries depart for Île de Porquerolles left turn for Bandol city centre, bear There is a car park to the right just
before the village entrance.
q La Cadière d’Azur
Var, Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur; 83740
From Le Castellet to the coast,
AOP Bandol vineyards form a golden
ripple against the azure horizon.
To sip the sweetest local produce, visit
the prestigious Château de Pibarnon
(open Mon–Sat) or Domaine Tempier
(open Mon–Fri). If pressed for time, La
Cadierenne Coopérative (open Mon–
Sat), just off the A50 at junction 11,
sells the wares of scores of local
producers. After finishing shopping for