Page 247 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 23: Vineyards of Provence 245

pride is its massive botanical
gardens, Domaine du Rayol (open
daily). With its Visitor Centre housed
in an old Art-Deco hotel, the
domaine is peppered with Chinese
bamboo, Chilean wine palm groves
and Californian Joshua trees. Book in
advance to visit the sentier marin (sea
garden) for a guided snorkelling trip
that explores the Baie du Figuier.
ª Take the D559 west. Just past Le
Lavandou, turn right onto the D41,
following signs north to Bormes-les-
Mimosas. At the T-junction take the
left fork of the D41 going south to
Bormes-les-Mimosas.
6 Bormes-les-Mimosas
Var, Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur; 83230 Above View from ruins of the old Château
A striking village perché (perched above the pedestrianized old town. d’Hyères Below Domaine du Rayol botanical
village), Bormes-les-Mimosas is thick A great attraction for 20th-century gardens, Rayol-Canadel-sur-Mer
with climbing bougainvillea. It offers artists, the beautiful villa was where
cool breezes, as well as splendid views Man Ray filmed Les Mystères du
over Cap de Brégançon and its fort, Château du Dé; it has also hosted the
EAT AND DRINK
an official French presidential retreat. likes of Dalí, Miró and Picasso.
Leave the village on the Route de Place de la République in the RAMATUELLE
Cabasson, going south to Fort centre of town has one of Hyères’ L’Écurie du Castellas
Brégançon. The winding road goes main churches, the Romanesque and
moderate–expensive
past vineyards interspersed with Provençal-Gothic St-Louis. The menu offers local Mediterranean-
poplars, palms and olive trees, making In 1867, a palm-growing industry style dishes, served on a terrace with
this the area’s most pictur esque drive. was established in Hyères. It soon lovely views over the village. The
desserts are wonderful, particularly
Turn right, along Route de Léoube, became the largest of its kind in
the white chocolate and passionfruit
and sample the fine AOP Côtes de Europe and still functions as an
tart. There’s a very reasonably priced
Provence at Château de Brégançon important industry. Hundreds of palms set menu at lunchtime on weekdays.
(open Mon–Sat) or Domaine de Léoube still line the boulevards of the town. Reservations essential.
(open daily, closed Sun during low season). ª Head south along Avenue Route des Moulins de Paillas Saint
Tropez, 83350; 04 94 79 20 67; www.
ª Continue along the Route de Gambetta. The road forks; bear left
lecurieducastellas.com; closed Sun and
Léoube. Follow it west to La Londe- on the D197 for Presqu’Île de Giens,
Mon dinner
les-Maures, turn left onto the D559, pas sing the airport, following the old
AROUND BORMESLESMIMOSAS
then follow signs for Hyères. At the seaside railway. Continue south to La
roundabout, take the D98 to Hyères. Tour Fondue: there is parking at the L’Instant moderate
A small, lively restaurant on Le
Take the second city centre indication, ferry terminal.
Lavandou’s main square serving fresh,
turning right onto Rue Ambroise
local food cooked in the regional
Thomas. This passes the tourist office style. The home-made foie gras is
and leads straight into town, where delicious, as is their platter of cold
various car parks are signposted. Corsican meats. Servings are generous
and it offers excellent value for money
as well as friendly service.
7 Hyères 2 Quai Gabriel Péri, Le Levandou
Var, Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur; 83400 83980; 06 71 61 42 43; www.
Hyères is the oldest winter resort restaurantlinstant.sitew.com; closed
established in the south of France. Wed, Sun dinner, mid-Oct–Feb
Today it may have lost some of its
HYÈRES
belle-époque glamour but it is Bistrot de Marius
well worth hunting down the inexpensive–moderate
Neo-Moorish buildings designed The cuisine here is modern Provençal
by 19th-century architect Pierre and seafood: start with seafood and
fresh coriander salad, or order the
Chapoulard, which are dotted
octopus daube, a slow-cooked stew
around the city. A must-see is the
served with polenta.
stunning Villa Noialles (closed Tue Jul– 1 place Massillon, 83400; 04 94 35 88 38;
Sep; closed Mon–Tue Oct–Jun), perched closed Mon and mid-Nov–mid-Dec