Page 51 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 3: The Champagne Route 49

2 Les Crayères
Marne, Champagne-Ardenne; 51100
Several of Reims’ leading Champagne Houses are located in the
city-edge neighbourhood known as Les Crayères. Some have
regular public cellar tours in several languages; others are by
appointment only. These are paid tours, and last 1 hour on average.

A 45-minute walking tour forged by Louise Pommery, is on the
Champagne House visits are perfect corner. The grandiose castle is set in
for any time of the year – as long as it gardens behind a soar ing black fence.
fits in with the opening times of the The Pommery estate contains 18 km
maisons de Champagne. Start at (11 miles) of cellars and Gallo-Roman
Champagne Taittinger 1 (9 place chalk pits. There are 20 million bottles
Saint Nicaise, 03 26 85 45 35), established of Pommery lying 30 m (100 ft) under-
in 1735 by cham pagne mer chant ground. The gar dens have several
Jacques Fourneaux. Visitors may bright sculptures. Turn right into the
want to see the house that produces Rue des Crayères and head to
Maxim’s de Paris Champagne with its Champagne Ruinart 5 (4 rue des
belle époque labels. For this, descend Crayères, 03 26 77 51 51). The 18th-
Rue des Salines, and turn left into Rue century mansion conceals a pheno-
Créneaux where there are cellar tours menon: reached via a plummet ing
and tastings at G H Martel & Co 2 (17 staircase and network of corridors, the
rue des Créneaux , 03 26 82 70 67). crayères here are cathedral-like in Above Grand Champagne Pommery,
Turn back and follow Rue Goïot over proportion. Finally, head down the Les Crayères
Boulevard Victor Hugo to Boulevard Boulevard Diancourt to Veuve
Henry Vasnier, to the small family- Clicquot-Ponsardin 6 (1 place des VISITING LES CRAYÈRES
owned Champagne Drappier 3 (11 Droits de l’Homme, 03 26 89 53 90). The
Parking
rue Goïot, 03 26 05 13 01) – suppliers house is also involved in the arts and Boulevard Pommery, Boulevard Henry
to General de Gaulle, specialists in its innate design flair is reflected in Vasnier and Rue des Crayères have
gross flacons (big bottles), rare grapes the fabulously modernized interiors many maisons which offer visitor
parking. Visitors can also walk from the
and sulphate-free champagne. If you of the historic estate. From here head
car park by the Basilique de Saint-Remi.
have time after the walk, visit their 11th- back to Rue Jean Aubert and turn left
century cellars in the department of the to reach the car park by the basilica.
EAT AND DRINK
Aube by appointment (rue des Vignes, ª Leave on D951, then join the A4.
10200 Urville, 03 25 27 40 15). Head up Take exit 26 and continue on the D8E,
REIMS
Boulevard Henry Vasnier to the inter- towards Louvois. At the big roundabout
Bistro Henri IV inexpensive–moderate
section with Boulevard Pommery. turn left on the D9, then left on the D26
This restaurant is known for its
Champagne Pommery 4 (5 place du and pass through Mailly-Champagne generous servings of traditional food.
Général Gouraud, 03 26 61 62 63), a brand to arrive at Verzenay. 29 rue Henri IV, 51100; 03 26 47 56 22;
closed Sun and Mon.
La Brasserie du Boulingrin
inexpensive–moderate
RUE DES CARMES RUE DU COMMANDANT MARIN LA MESLÉE Big choice of set menus, a la carte and
plat du jour in a vibrant 1925 Art Deco
Champagne
Drappier BOULEVARD RUE DES COUTURES ALLÈE DE L’ARGONNE brasserie of brass, wood and wall lamps.
RUE D’OSEILLE BOULEVARD POMMERY RUE DU CHEMIN VERT 31 rue de Mars, 51100; 03 26 40 96 22;
RUE DU BARB ATRE
closed Sun
G H Martel
Champagne
& Co BLVD VICTOR HUGO RUE GOÏOT HENRY VASN RUE DES CRAYÈRES Café du Palais moderate
Taittinger
RUE CRÉN EEUX SALINES PLACE RUE SAINT-NICAISE IER Champagne Champagne fraternity. It serves bistro food and has
This theatrical café is loved by the art
RUE DES
Pommery
Ruinart
RUE GRAND CERF.
Basilique de ST-NICAISE an exten sive list of champagnes.
14 place Myron Herrick, 51100; 03 26
AUBERT
Saint-Remi RUE JEAN 47 52 54; www.cafedupalais.fr; closed
RUE SAINT-JULIEN BOULEVARD DIANCOURT BOULEVARD HENRY VASNIER Tue night and Sun
PLACE SAINT-REMI
AROUND REIMS
AVENUE SAINT-POL
BOULEVARD DU DIEU LUMIÈRE Veuve Clicquot- 0 metres 250 L’Assiette Champenoise expensive
Enjoy an exquisite dining experience
AVENUE DU GÉNÉRAL GIRAUD
250
in the three-star Michelin restaurant.
40 avenue Paul Vaillant-Couturier,
0 yards
Tinqueux, 51430; 03 26 84 64 64;
Ponsardin
www.assiettechampenoise.com
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40