Page 55 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 3: The Champagne Route 53

0 Champillon
Marne, Champagne-Ardenne; 51160
The Rue du Paradis is a perfect way
to describe the drive through sweep-
ing hillsides of vineyards. One of the
highest points in the Montagne de
Reims, Champillon has panoramic
views that cover the entire Marne
Valley, the vineyards and the village
of Dizy through to Épernay. As writer
Victor Hugo observed in the 1840s,
“It is the town of champagne wine –
nothing more, nothing less”. The Above left Mural in Champillon depicting the
church of Saint Barnabé has a ethos propriétaire-récoltant – owner- production of champagne Above right Town
wooden Louis XIV altar offered to the grower. The hilltop Chapelle Saint- signs in Hautvillers Below Pretty tourism
noble seigneurs by Dom Pérignon. Lié at Villedommange has a view- office in the Montagne de Reims
ª Turn left out of the village and join point over the forested hillsides and
the D951; continue to Montchenot. the Plain of Reims. The 12th-century
Just at the entrance to the village take church of Saint-Remi Coulommes in
the sharp turn left to Sermiers onto the Coulommes-la-Montagne is set
D26. Take the D22 through Nogent and among the vines on a hillside from
then turn left back onto the D26 to where several walking trails begin.
Coulommes-la-Montagne. The villages
EAT AND DRINK
on this route form the Montagne de
Reims wine-producing region.
ÉPERNAY
q Montagne de Reims Restaurant Le Théâtre moderate
The restaurant, housed in a renovated
Marne, Champagne-Ardenne, 51480
theatre, serves food such as veal with
The Champagne Route is split into local mustard. Another delicacy is duck
five wine-producing regions, of and game in season.
which one is the Montagne de 8 place Mendès, 51200; 03 26 58 88 19;
www.epernay-rest-letheatre.com;
Reims. This route passes through
closed Sun and Tue nights, Wed
the small villages on the slopes of
the Parc Naturel Régional de la La Table Kobus moderate–expensive
In this old brasserie-style eatery with
Montagne de Reims: Montchenot,
its marble tables, small wooden bar
Chamery, Sacy, Villedommange and and vintage photos, the chef recalls
Coulommes-la-Montagne. There are the traditional French flavours –
several vignerons indépendents, small entrecôtes, goat’s cheese tart and
independent champagne-makers, mousse au chocolat.
3 rue Dr Rousseau, 51200;
flagged along the way. Their logo 03 26 51 53 53;
depicts a winemaker carrying grapes www.latablekobus.com;
from the field – symbolic of the closed Thu and Sun nights, Mon
DAYTRIP OPTIONS Reims, follow the driving instructions in Avenue du Champagne
Wherever visitors happen to be the itinerary. Those based in Ludes need While adults may find cellar tours in
based on the Champagne Route, the to take the D26. Reims amazing, children will love the
following day trips to Verzenay, visit to Champagne Mercier in
Dom Pérignon territory
Hautvillers and Épernay are within Épernay 8,especially the train trip
The town of Hautvillers 9 offers
easy reach. through its storage galleries (68
a historic village and abbey, avenue du Champagne, 03 26 51 22 22;
Musée de la Vigne Champagne Houses and walking www.champagnemercier.fr).
The Musée de la Vigne at Verzenay 3 among the vines and forest; all make
Follow the signs to the Avenue du
is good entertainment and educa- for a well-rounded day out.
Champagne and enter the visitor
tional for children and adults, with
From Épernay take the Rue de Reims, parking at Mercier. From Reims take
Champagne Houses and forest walks
pass through Magenta and continue the D951 in the direction of Épernay.
right alongside.
on the N2051. At Dizy, take the Avenue Approaching the city take the fourth
Verzenay lies along the Route du General Leclerc, and continue on exit at the roundabout and continue
Touristique du Champagne. From the D386. on the D301.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20– €40; expensive, over €40