Page 52 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

50 BACK ROADS FRANCE

ª Back on the D26 drive about
2 km (1 mile) to see the Faux de Verzy
– just opposite is the car park for Mont
Sinai observation point, the highest
point of the Montagne of Reims, at
283 m (928 ft). Return via the D26 to
reach the next stop, Ludes.
4 Ludes
Marne, Champagne-Ardenne; 51500
Ludes sits between the foot of the
Montagne de Reims and the summit
of the hillsides of Champagne vine-
yards. Its name is believed to have
come from either Lucida or Lucus,
both derived from a word meaning
Above Village of Verzenay with stretches of “light”. Ludes wines have been
vineyard in the background Below left 3 Verzenay appreciated since the Middle Ages
Jardiniére in Ludes Below right Champagne Marne, Champagne-Ardenne; 51360 when it belonged to lords. Today it is
House Forget-Chauvet in Ludes Originally named Virdunacus from among the class of elites – 17 villages
the Latin viridium sanum, meaning a of Champagne, many of them
luxuriantly verdant place, the village concen trated in the Montagne de
was partly destroyed when the World Reims – which produce the some of
War I battlelines came too close to it. the best grand cru champagnes.
The landmark lighthouse, the Phare ª Exit Ludes at the top of the town via
de Verzenay, was built in 1919 by the D33 and continue to Ville-en-Selve,
champagne-maker Joseph Goulet at the heart of Montagne de Reims.
as a publicity stunt. It has now been From here turn right onto the D71,
converted into a champagne towards Germaine, and pass through
museum. The Museé de la Vigne the Grande Montagne de Reims.
(open Tue–Sun) has historic frescoes,
culinary exhibitions, audiovisual Champagne Countryside
presentations and a vine garden There are two explanations for the
WHERE TO STAY displaying the different grape origin of the word champagne. One
varieties grown in Champagne. Near says that it comes from two Celtic
AŸ the adjacent village, visit the Faux words kann and pann mean ing
Le Manoir des Charmes moderate de Verzy, a conserved forest patch white countryside, referring to the
This upmarket bed-and-breakfast is of twisted beech trees. Experts have chalky landscape. The second expla-
furnished with refinement, taste and not fully understood why the trees nation is that it is from the Latin word
historic astuteness. The 1906-built continue to grow in this fashion. for a cultivated field, campania.
stone manor is set in lovely gardens at
the heart of the top champagne-
making territory. The five rooms are
romantically decorated with one-off
antiques, vintage objects, and fresh,
natural fabrics, linen and hand-
embroidered bath towels.
83 boulevard Charles de Gaulle,
51160; 03 26 54 58 49; www.
lemanoirdescharmes.fr
Hotel Castel Jeanson moderate
This is a small, charming and
welcoming hotel in an elegant former
Champagne House with swimming
pool, stained-glass windows, drawing
room and lounge, bar and private park-
ing facilities. Run by a small friendly
and efficient staff, there are 14 rooms,
3 suites and a family room – some
have rather florid decor and fabrics,
but are nonetheless immacu late,
cultivated and personal in style.
24 rue Jeanson, 51160; 03 26 54 21 75;
www.casteljeanson.fr
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150