Page 53 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 3: The Champagne Route 51

5 Grande Montagne
de Reims
Marne, Champagne-Ardenne; 51160
The route from Ludes to Aÿ
penetrates the forested highland
between Reims and Épernay – the
Grande Montagne de Reims. The
hillsides and valleys are covered with
Pinot Noir grapes, one of the three
varieties used in the elaboration of
champagne. Ten out of 17 grand cru
territories are concentrated in this
area. The region is also the greenest,
wildest part of the drive – a mix of
deep forest and voluptuous spreads
of vines in the hills around the tiny
Hameau de Vauremont, where Moët Above left Valley of Grande Montagne de
& Chandon has some terrains. In the 7 Côte des Blancs Reims Above Charming town of Oger, Côte
last forest fold is the pretty village of Marne, Champagne-Ardenne; 51190 des Blancs Below Roofline of the town of Aÿ
Avenay-Val-d’Or. The Côte des Blancs extends for
ª Continue along the D271, pass 15 km (9 miles) south of Épernay from
Avenay-Val-d’Or onto the D201 and the grand cru villages of Oger and EAT AND DRINK
follow signs to Aÿ. Le Mesnil-sur-Oger through to
Vertus. Dotted within a large AŸ
6 Aÿ amphitheatre, the hillside villages are Le Vieux Puits expensive
Marne, Champagne-Ardenne; 51160 the cradle of Chardonnay grapes, Various set menus are available,
Between the Marne river and the one of the vital champagne including the weekday lunch menu,
southern slopes of the Montagne ingredients. Fine and elegant, these which is excellent value for money. The
à la carte dishes include foie gras, duck
de Reims, Aÿ has 3.7 sq km (1.4 sq grapes are used in the preparation of
or goose liver and escargots (snails),
miles) of grand cru-classed vineyards some of the best champagnes. and mirabelle plum tart for dessert.
and is the headquarters of the In Oger, one of the prettiest villages Le Clos Saint Georges, 7 rue Jules
Institut International des Vins de in the region, people decorate their Lobet, 51160; 03 26 56 96 53; closed
Mon, Wed, Thu evening
Champagne (15 rue Jeanson), a perfect houses with barrels, troughs and
place to get an introduction to the grape-picking baskets which overflow AROUND CÔTE DES BLANCS
wines of Champagne. With a map with flowers. The town also has a La Gare inexpensive–moderate
from the town hall in Place Henri 12th-century church. Former train station in the heart of
Martin, follow the signed tourist trail ª From Oger take the D10 to Vertus the Côte des Blancs, the restaurant
around 19 interpre tation panels, via Mensil-sur-Oger. Then take the is excellent, cheerful and modestly
priced. Enjoy the chef’s daily
which has brief explanations in D36 to Villers-aux-Bois and then the recommendation. 3 Place de la gare,
English. The rustic doorways of D38 to Chaltrait; there turn right onto Le Mesnil sur Oger, 51190; 03 26 51 59
smaller family-owned Champagne the D40, towards Moslins, for Épernay. 55; closed Sun, evenings Mon–Wed
Houses line the narrow cobble-
stoned passages leading to the
Gothic Église Saint-Brice, a classified
histo ric monument. The streets just
below the vine-covered hillsides
are home to some of the biggest
brands: Champagne Bollinger and
Champagne Gosset Brabant on
Boulevard de Lattre de Tassigny;
Champagne Ayala on Boulevard du
Nord and Deutz on Rue Jeanson.
Visitors who are able to climb up to
the hilltop will find fan tastic views
over the town and the countryside
reaching as far as Épernay.
ª Drive out of Aÿ on the D1 to
Mareuil-sur-Aÿ and turn right onto the
D112 to cross the Marne; continue onto
the D9, twards Avize, to reach Oger.