Page 61 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 4: Discovering the North 59

valley. The Course river runs through Ternoise are the most attractive. Lush
the middle of the valley’s villages, and tranquil, they offer lovely walking
between red-roofed white cottages. routes and fishing spots between the
Doudeauville is one of the prettiest, ancient villages. Fressin, home of the
with a grey-walled church and the novelist Georges Bernanos (1888–
remains of a medieval fortress. 1948), has an impo sing ruined castle
Beussent is the home of the and, in the Église St-Martin, an
renowned producer of handmade exquisite Gothic funeral chapel.
chocolates, Chocolaterie de Beussent. ª From Fressin take the D154 north-
ª Rejoin the D901 south of Estréelles. east to meet the D928 at Ruisseauville.
Turn right into Montreuil. Follow the Turn right, and imme diately left onto
road uphill into the old town, and park the D71 for Azincourt.
in one of the squares off Rue Ledent.
6 Azincourt
Pas-de-Calais, Nord-Pas-de-Calais; 62310
Known in English as Agincourt, this
was the site of the battle where, in
October 1415, Henry V of England
defeated Charles VI of France. There is
an informative museum, the Centre
Historique Médiéval (open daily Apr–
Oct; closed Tues, Nov–Mar). A walk
around the battlefield, between Above Hôtel de Ville on Place d’Armes, a great
Azincourt and the next village of example of Flemish architecture in Hesdin
Maisoncelle, gives a vivid impression
of the events even after 500 years.
ª From the battlefield at Maisoncelle
EAT AND DRINK
continue along the D104 to Blangy-
sur-Ternoise and the D94. Turn right
Above Row of cottages along a cobblestoned for Hesdin and follow the road to the CALAIS
road in Montreuil-sur-Mer main square, Place d’Armes. La Pléiade expensive
The cooking here is inventive and
extremely refined, seen at its best in
4 Montreuil 7 Hesdin subtly-flavoured fish dishes.
Pas-de-Calais, Nord-Pas-de-Calais; 62170 Pas-de-Calais, Nord-Pas-de-Calais; 62140 32 rue Jean Quéhen, 62100; 03 21 34
Montreuil has a dramatic approach The town was laid out in 1554 for 03 70; www.lapleiade.com; closed Sun
evening, Mon
to its old town around hairpin bends Charles V after he made it a part of the
and through the imposing Porte de Spanish Netherlands. This gave the BOULOGNESURMER
Boulogne gate in the town walls, town its dis tinctive Dutch appearance.
Chez Jules moderate
built in the 1540s for King François I. The Canche river appears in many A big, classic town brasserie, with an
There are fabulous views over the places around Hesdin, glittering unbeatable position for its bustling
Canche Valley from the ramparts. under humpback bridges. terrace on the market square.
Inside the walls are cobbled alleys of ª Leave Place d’Armes by Rue André Everything from snacks to intricate
dishes are served.
tiny cottages, 18th-century town Fréville; follow signs for Frévent onto 8 place Dalton, 62200; 03 21 31 54 12;
houses and Gothic churches. Today, the D340. Continue along it to Arras via www.chez-jules.fr; closed Sun evening
Montreuil is a popular stopping place Frévent, where it becomes the D339.
MONTREUIL
and has a wide range of restaurants. Then take the D68 and D59 for Arras.
Auberge de la Grenouillère
ª Retrace the same road out of Follow signs to Grand’ Place to park.
expensive
Montreuil; cross over the D901 into
Set in a pretty old farm house, this is
Neuville-sous-Montreuil. Turn right one of the finest restaurants in the
onto the D113 through Marles-sur- north of France. It serves an array of
Canche. From Beaurainville, turn left distinctive creations.
La Madeleine-sous-Montreuil, 62170;
onto the D130 up the Créquoise Valley
03 21 06 07 22; www.lagrenouillere.fr;
as far as Créquy, then right onto the closed Tue, Wed
D155 for Fressin.
HESDIN
5 Les Sept Vallées L’Écurie inexpensive–moderate
Pas-de-Calais, Nord-Pas-de-Calais; 62140 A pleasant restaurant in a converted
16th-century stable, with attractively
The “Seven Valleys” of Artois are varied menus and a quality wine list.
wooded clefts cut by a set of rivers – Above Nineteenth-century memorial 17 rue Jacquemont, 62140; 03 21 86 86
the Créquoise, Planquette and commemorating the battle at Azincourt in 1415 86; closed Sun evening, Mon, Tue
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40