Page 60 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

58 BACK ROADS FRANCE

2 Boulogne-sur-Mer
Pas-de-Calais, Nord-Pas-de-Calais; 62200
The most historic of France’s cross-
Channel ports, Boulogne has at its
heart the hilltop old town or Haute
Ville, enclosed within massive walls
begun in the 1230s. A walk around
the ramparts is a delightful way to
get a feel of the old town. In a corner
of the ramparts is the Château-Musée,
(open Wed– Mon), an eclectic museum.
Down the hill from the Haute Ville,
Place Dalton hosts the area’s liveliest
mar ket. Round the corner is Philippe
Oliver, the best cheese shop in France.
Beside the harbour is Nausicaà (open
daily), a dynamic sealife centre.
ª Follow the main road south out of
Boulogne, then the D901 as far as
Samer. Turn left onto the D215 to
“centre town” and then continue on
the D52 for Desvres, but after 2.5 km
(1.5 miles) look for a sharp right turn
Above left Château-Musée, Boulogne-sur- onto the D127a, which joins the Vallée
Mer Above right Beach huts along the beach 1 Calais de la Course road at Doudeauville.
of Calais Top right Façade of one of Pas-de-Calais, Nord-Pas-de-Calais; 62100
Montreuil-sur-Mer’s historic houses Calais was rebuilt in functional style Philip Frizzy-Hair
after World War II. The Musée des Boulogne’s massive ramparts and
Beaux-Arts et de la Dentelle (open many of its oldest buildings, such
daily) has some fine paintings and as the looming stone belfry, were
WHERE TO STAY displays of local lace. By the Hôtel begun for Philippe Hurepel, or
de Ville is the original casting of “Frizzy Hair”, Count of Boulogne.
AROUND CALAIS Rodin’s 1888 sculpture the Burghers A younger son of King Philippe-
Hotel Atlantic moderate of Calais. Calais also has a beach Auguste, he married the Countess
This Art Deco hotel, 30 km (20 miles) which leads to the coast road for of Boulogne in 1223. He had
south of Calais, has been modernized, Boulogne along the Côte d’Opale. ambitions of becoming king but
and has wonderful sea views from failed in his attempts.
many rooms. It has a fine restaurant. Wimereux is a charming traditional
Digue de Mer, Wimereux, 62930; 03 21 sea side resort and Ambleteuse has a
32 41 01; www.atlantic-delpierre.com rugged 1680s fort. 3 Vallée de la Course
ª Leave Calais along Digue Gaston Pas-de-Calais, Nord-Pas-de-Calais;
BOULOGNESURMER
Berthe and follow signs for “Boulogne 62650, 62170
L’Enclos de l’Evêché moderate par le Côte” onto the D940. In A climb up and over a hill from the
A delightful chambre d’hôte in a finely
restored town house, it has five rooms Boulogne, head for “Centre Ville”. Desvres road leads into a hidden
decorated on historical themes.
6 rue de Pressy, 62200; 03 91 90 05 90;
www.enclosdeleveche.com
MONTREUIL
Le Coq Hôtel moderate
This cosy traditional hotel in the heart
of old Montreuil has been thoroughly
renovated, but without losing its
small-town charm.
2 place de la Poissonnerie, 62170; 03
21 81 05 61; www.coqhotel.fr
AROUND LES SEPT VALLÉES
La Cour de Rémi moderate
Very stylish design and rural tranquillity
are effectively combined at this hotel.
There is a very romantic treehouse.
1 rue Baillet, Bermicourt, 62130; 03 21
03 33 33; www.lacourderemi.com Above Cosy little cottages line the Course river in Doudeauville, Valleé de la Course
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150