Page 64 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

62 BACK ROADS FRANCE

The Somme river runs through the
centre in canals and marsh-gardens,
creating a relaxed ambience within
the city. At its heart is the largest
of France’s cathedrals, Cathédrale
Notre-Dame d’Amiens. The carvings
on the west front of the cathedral are
stunning, from intricate biblical scenes
to the roundels around the portals
that show a pano rama of 13th-
century life. Every evening dur ing
summer and around Christmas the
Above left Historial de la Grande Guerre west front is spectac ularly illumi-
museum, Péronne Above right Rifles q Péronne nated with a re-creation of the rich
displayed in the tunnels of Musée Somme Somme, Picardie; 80200 colours with which it was painted
1916, Albert The historic town of Péronne suffered when first built in the 13th century.
terribly during World War I. The walls of There is more superb carving inside,
VISITING AMIENS its ruined medieval castle now form especially in the scenes of the lives of
the base for the innovative Historial St John the Baptist and St Firmin
Parking de la Grande Guerre museum (open around the ambulatory. Below the
Parking is controlled within the ring of daily, mid-Jan–mid-Dec), covering every cathedral, lively Place du Don leads
boulevards around the city centre. The aspect of the war with original to the Quartier St-Leu, a charming,
most convenient large car park is
St-Leu, on Rue Vanmarke near the river. exhibits. Around Amiens and car-free district of canals, tiny
There is free parking outside the boule- Péronne, the Somme forms colombage houses and craft
vards, but spaces are often hard to find. several étangs (ponds) – shops that is ideal for stroll-
Tourist Information natural sites that host a ing. Its social centre is the
40 place Notre-Dame; 03 22 71 60 50; range of flora and fauna. Quai Bélu, with a line of
www.amiens-tourisme.com At the back of the water side restaurants.
museum is a walk that Amiens’ marsh gardens, the
takes visitors through Hortillonages (open daily,
WHERE TO STAY some of these étangs. Apr–Oct), have existed since
ª Follow Avenue de la Bas-relief in Roman times, and form a
AROUND ALBERT République out of Péronne Amiens Cathedral separate, placid world within
Le Macassar expensive onto the D938 for Albert, via the city east of Quartier
This luxury boutique hotel,18 km a left turn in Fricourt onto the D64. St-Leu. A unique environment, full of
(11 miles) south of Albert, is housed in birdlife, they are popular as leisure and
a lavishly restored 1930s house.
8 place de la République, Corbie, 80800; w Albert market gardens, and famous for
03 22 48 40 04; www.lemacassar.com Somme, Picardie; 80300 producing high-quality vegetables.
Albert was the main British base The Hortillonage owners’ cooperative
AMIENS
during the Somme battles of 1916. Its provides tours in punt-like boats.
Hotel Victor Hugo inexpensive
This is a good-value family hotel in Musée Somme 1916 (open daily Feb–
the centre of the city, it is within mid-Dec) has a large number of mili tary
walking distance of the Cathedral, relics and reconstructions of trench
other tourist areas and the station. life. South of Corbie, at Villers-
2 rue de l’Oratoire, 80000; 03 22 91 57 Bretonneux, is the Australian National
91; www.hotel-a-amiens.com
Memorial and the Musée Franco-
Hôtel Le Prieuré moderate Australien (open Mon–Sat)
This atmospheric old Logis hotel, an commemorating the role of the
inn since the 18th century, is very close
to the cathedral of Amiens. Australian troops in the Somme.
17 rue Porion, Amiens, 80000; ª From Albert town centre follow
03 22 71 16 71; www.hotel-prieure- signs for Corbie onto the D42 and then
amiens.com right onto the D1. Go through Corbie,
AROUND BAIE DE LA SOMME then turn left on the D23 to Villers-
Hôtel Picardia moderate Bretonneux; there turn right on the
A rather chic little hotel in a renovated D1029 for Amiens.
old inn near St-Valery’s waterfront, with
a fresh, youthful feel. Several rooms are
very large and excellent for families. e Amiens
41 Quai Romerel, St-Valery-sur- Somme, Picardie; 80000
Somme, 80230; 03 22 60 32 30; “My little Venice” was what the 15th- Above One of many waterside gardens in the
www.picardia.fr century King Louis XI called Amiens. Hortillonages of Amiens
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150