Page 62 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

60 BACK ROADS FRANCE

8 Arras
Pas-de-Calais, Nord-Pas-de-Calais; 62000
Visitors to Arras are often stunned by their first view of the town’s
Grand’ Place, one of the largest market squares in Europe, lined by
gable-topped Flemish houses. Two other squares nearby seem small
only by comparison. Devastated in World War I, all three were
restored brick-by-brick in the 1920s. Today, the arcades beneath the
gables host beguiling shops and restaurants and a vibrant streetlife.

A 90-minute walking tour Back on ground level, walk around
The best time to do the walk is in the the Hôtel de Ville into Place de la
morning or during the afternoon. Vacquerie. Walk out of it on the right-
Begin by taking in the scale of the hand side up Rue Désiré-Bras to
Grand’ Place 1. A market has been reach the Neo-Classical Cathédrale
held here since AD 828. The square Notre-Dame-et-St-Vaast d’Arras on
grew to its present size in the 15th Rue des Teinturiers, built between
century. Look out for the 1770 and the 1830s. Next
intricate details on the to it is the similarly huge
many façades, such as Abbaye St-Vaast 4, also
the two sheep carved on built in Neo-Classical style
No. 54. No. 49, dating from in the mid-18th century. It
1467, is the oldest house in now houses the Musée
Above People relaxing at the casual bars Arras. Today it is the Trois des Beaux-Arts (open Wed–
lining the Place des Héros, Arras Luppars hotel. Mon), with notable 17th-
Lively Rue de la Taillerie and 19th-century paint ings,
VISITING ARRAS
connects the Grand’ Place fine por celain and some
to the second square, Place medieval sculptures.
Parking
There are paid parking places in the des Héros 2, also known Belfry of Hôtel Leaving the complex on
Grand’ Place except during the as the Petit’-Place. It is more de Ville, Arras Place de la Madeleine, walk
Wednesday and Saturday markets. intimate, and has a more down Rue Maximilien
There is also an underground car park individual range of shops. Robespierre to pass Maison
beneath the square, open at all times
except on Sundays. Walk across to the Hôtel de Ville 3, Robespierre 5, where the revo-
with its extraordi nary Gothic façade. lutionary lived before 1789. On Place
Tourist Information First completed in 1506, it too was du Théâtre 6 is the elegant 1785
Hôtel de Ville, place des Héros;
03 21 51 26 95; www.ot-arras.fr rebuilt in the 1920s. The tourist office theatre. Across Rue Ernestale, streets
here offers two trips within the build- lead towards Place Victor Hugo 7,
ing, one up to the top of the giant an octagon of sym me trical houses
belfry for a pano ramic view, and around an obelisk. Retrace the route
WHERE TO STAY another down to the mysterious boves to Rue Ernestale; turn right and then
(chalk tunnels that run beneath Arras). left onto Rue Désiré de Lansomme
ARRAS
Les Agaches inexpensive
A charming bed-and-breakfast in the
centre of Arras, with just two pretty
rooms and a garden.
17 rue des Agaches, 62000;
03 21 23 15 03; www.lesagaches.fr
Ostel les Trois Luppars moderate
The oldest house in Arras, with a
Flemish Gothic gable façade from 1467,
contains this very popular hotel. Rooms
are small, but has plenty of character.
49 Grand’ Place, 62000; 03 21 60 02 03;
www.ostel-les-3luppars.com
La Maison d’Hôtes moderate
The most stylish and friendliest option
in Arras, this 18th-century town house
is furnished with a luxurious mix of
antiques and chic modern touches to
create a very special ambience.
1 place Guy Mollet, 62000; 03 21 58 85
94; www.lamaisondhotes.com