Page 65 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 4: Discovering the North 63

The Ficelle Picarde
The ficelle is Picardy’s most famous
dish, and appears on most restau-
rant menus around the region. It is
a rather thick crêpe covered with a
slice of ham, filled with chopped or
sliced mushrooms that are usually
pre-sautéed, often with garlic. It is
then rolled up, covered in crème
fraîche and topped with grated
cheese. Finally it is baked until
golden and bubbling.
Above left Stone carving decorating Amiens
South of the cathedral, the Musée de vast horizons and a wonder ful Cathedral Above right Buildings in the
Picardie (open Tue–Sun) has finds from tranquillity. Ringed by footpaths, the walled town of St-Valery-sur-Somme
excavations of the nearby Roman Baie de la Somme is ideal for walking,
city of Samara, medieval sculpture cycling and birdwatching. On either
EAT AND DRINK
and an impressive range of paintings. side of the bay are two charm ing
Another museum comme morates towns. St-Valery-sur-Somme is a tiny,
PÉRONNE
one of Amiens’ most famous citizens, ancient walled town, and has a tree-
Bistro d’Antoine
the author Jules Verne (1828–1905). shaded bayside promenade, while Le
inexpensive–moderate
The Maison de Jules Verne (open daily Crotoy, opposite, has a great choice of A traditional bistro located opposite
Easter–mid-Oct; Wed–Mon mid-Oct– fish restaurants. Its beach is popular for the l’Historial de la Grande Guerre.
Easter), where he lived for many years, sand-yachting, and Marquenterre 8 Place André Audionot, 80200; 03 22
has a recon struction of his study and (open daily), a wildlife reserve to the 85 84 46; www.bistrot-antoine.fr
artifacts related to his life and ideas. north, is home to millions of birds. AMIENS
ª Leave Amiens on the main riverside Brasserie Jules inexpensive–moderate
boulevard on the south bank of the Exploring the Bay Jules Verne provides the theme for this
Somme; follow signs for Picquigny onto One of the greatest experiences in huge, bright modern brasserie.
the N235 and then D1235. In Picquigny, the Baie de la Somme is to walk into 18 boulevard Alsace-Lorraine,
fork right onto the D3, through or even across it at low tide, in the 80000; 03 22 71 18 40;
www.brasserie-jules.fr
Abbeville to St-Valery-sur-Somme. Traversée de la Baie. Several organiza-
tions offer walks, including Rando- AROUND BAIE DE LA SOMME
r Baie de la Somme Nature en Somme (www.randonature- Les Tourelles expensive
baiedesomme.com) and Promenade The brilliant light of the bay floods into
Somme, Picardie; 80230, 80550
The Somme river meets the sea in a en Baie (www.promenade-en-baie. the dining room at Les Tourelles. Its
com). No one should ever try seafood specialities are delectable.
huge arc of salt marsh, dunes and
the walk without a guide, as the 2–4 rue Pierre Guerlain, Le Crotoy,
sand flats. Here at low tide, the sea can 80550; 03 22 27 16 33;
changing tides can be fatal.
retreat 12 km (7 miles), leaving behind www.lestourelles.com
DAYTRIP OPTIONS For a faster start from Calais, take Beaumont-Hamel on the D919, then
This route conveniently breaks down the (partly toll-free) A16 autoroute follow the Circuit du Souvenir to
into separate parts, for those with from Calais rather than the coast road, Péronne and Albert. From Paris, visitors
less time or a special interest to and take the Wimereux exit. Follow can take the A16 to Amiens and begin
follow. For anyone approaching the the directions from Boulogne for the a battlefield tour from there.
area from Paris and central France, Valleé de la Course and Montreuil,
the most convenient route can be to but for a change return on the D940 Amiens and the bay
take the A16 autoroute to Amiens, up the coast. Admire the cathedral at Amiens e
and begin from there. and take in the city’s atmosphere in
The battlefields
the morning, and then head to the
Along the Côte d’Opale History enthusiasts can easily spend
a whole day or more exploring the Baie de la Somme r for an invigo-
For immediate relaxation, spend rating walk and a stunning sunset.
some winding-down time on the World War I sites. Begin at Arras 8
to take in Vimy 9, and then
beach at Wimereux, then explore Amiens can be reached very fast on the
continue down to the Somme r.
Boulogne 2 before driving down A16 autoroute from Calais or Paris and
the Valleé de la Course 3 to end To go directly to Arras, take the A26 the south. From the city, follow the
the day with a gourmet meal at autoroute from Calais, or the A1 from minor roads on the south of the Somme
Montreuil 4. Paris. From Arras head south to (D1235 and D3) for the best views.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40