Page 70 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

68 BACK ROADS FRANCE

Towering above are the ruins of
Château Gaillard (open Wed–Mon,
Mar–Nov), with a breathtaking view
across the valley. With walls 5 m
(16 ft) thick, this massive castle was
built in just one year in 1196–7 for
Richard the Lionheart, King of England,
to resist French attacks on Normandy.
However, King Philippe Auguste
of France finally captured Château
Gaillard in 1204, ending the rule
of the descendants of William the
Conqueror in Normandy and
incor porating it into France.
ª From Les Andelys’ main street,
Avenue de la République, look for the
D1 (Rue Hamelin), signed for Écouis and
Lyons-la-Forêt. In Fresne-l’Archevêque,
fork right to stay on the Écouis road,
which then becomes the D2.
Monet’s Little Paradise
The great Impressionist painter
Claude Monet first saw Giverny
from a train window, when he was
Top Fondation Claude Monet standing amid looking for a place to live in the
its gardens Above Panoramic vista of Château 1 Giverny country. He had a large household
Gaillard Below View of Les Andelys from Eure, Haute-Normandie; 27620 to accommodate: his two sons by
his first wife, who had recently died,
Château Gaillard The charming house of painter
and Alice Hoschedé, a friend of his
Claude Monet has been beautifully
first wife whose husband had left
restored as the Fondation Claude
her and her six children. Monet and
Monet (open daily Apr–Oct), with its Alice later married, in 1892. They
WHERE TO STAY unusually fresh, bright colours – blue first moved into the house that is
for the kitchen, yellow for the dining now the Maison Claude Monet in
GIVERNY room – and Monet’s superb collection 1883 as tenants, but later bought it
Moulin des Chennevières moderate of Japanese prints. Alongside it is the and acquired additional land in
This 17th-century mill has four exquisite garden he created, includ- which to create Monet’s astonish-
attractive bed-and-breakfast rooms. ing the Japanese water garden and ing garden. He was visited here by
34 chemin du Roy, 27620; 02 32 51 28 many famous artists, including
14; www.givernymoulin.com lily pond that he painted countless Gauguin, Renoir and Pissarro.
times. Also on display are copies of
La Réserve moderate–expensive some of his major paintings.
An enchanting chambre d’hôte
surrounded by ample grounds on the Following Monet, many other artists
hill behind Giverny. visited Giverny, and the passage
Chemin Blanche Hoschedé-Monet, from Impressionism to 20th-century
27620; 02 32 21 99 09; en.giverny- art is commemorated in the Musée
lareserve.com; closed Jan–Feb
des Impressionnismes (open daily
LES ANDELYS Apr–Oct).
ª Follow the D5 north out of Giverny
La Chaine d’Or moderate
This charming hotel has been village to Vernon, then turn right on
converted from an 18th-century toll the D181 and immediately left onto
house near the Château Gaillard. the D313, a much calmer Seine-side
27 rue Grande, 27700; 02 32 54 00 31;
www.hotel-lachainedor.com route than the left-bank D6015. Take
a right turn in Bouafles for Les Andelys.
LYONSLAFORÊT
Hostellerie de la Licorne expensive 2 Les Andelys
The grand half-timbered La Licorne Eure, Haute-Normandie; 27700
has been an inn since 1610; it has very Les Andelys is a classic Seine Valley
elegant modern rooms, exceptional
service and a gourmet restaurant. town, with lovely views from the
Place Benserade, 27480; 02 32 48 24 riverside quarter of Le Petit-Andely
24; www.hotel-licorne.com and its delightful restaurant gardens.
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150