Page 74 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

72 BACK ROADS FRANCE

q Forêt d’Eu
Seine-Maritime, Haute-Normandie; 76260
The Forêt d’Eu is the largest of northeast Normandy’s great beech
forests, extending in several sections over 93 sq km (36 sq miles) on
a long ridge between the valleys of the Yères and Bresle rivers. The
dark, dense forest was once a home for the Gauls and Romans and
later a hunting estate for the Dukes of Normandy and a source of
charcoal for the early glassmakers of the Bresle Valley. It is also one of
the largest intact native forests left in Europe, and a walk through it
is a marvellous way to discover its fascinating landscape.

A 90-minute walking tour factories towards Mers-les-Bains.
Leave the car in the parking area Continue on the Route Clémentine
where the forest road from Monchy as it turns back into the forest and
meets the Route de Beaumont from winds around the sides of the escarp-
Above Rows of trees in the dense Eu, and take the path to the left, ment. To the left, at every break in the
Forêt d’Eu looking into the forest, the Route trees, there are more superb views.
Clémentine. The main In late spring, there are
tracks in this part of the often great banks of
forest, Clémentine and bluebells around the
Louise, are named after paths; in autumn, the
the daughters of King colours of the golden
WHERE TO STAY Louis-Philippe (1773– beeches are stunning.
1850), a great lover of Eu, Look out too for wildlife:
EU who often came to the deer and wild boar are
Le Clos Sainte-Anne inexpensive forest for family outings Road sign pointing to quite common in the
The garden courtyard at this and picnics. Follow the Bois-l’Abbé forest, and there is an
beautifully restored 17th-century path along until it bends enormous range of birds,
house in the middle of Eu’s old streets
is a lovely place to relax after a day’s to the right around an escarpment including warblers, woodpeckers
touring. The three bed-and-breakfast known as La Houblonnière, which and orioles. At the end of a steep
rooms are beautiful and full of light. has superb views over the Vallée de cleft where the path hair pins left,
There is also a remarkable garden. la Bresle, with large ponds between there is one of the forest’s most
6 rue Ste-Anne, 76260; 02 35 50 75 56; the viewpoint and the village of intriguing monu ments, the Pierre
www.leclossainteanne.com
Bouvaincourt-sur-Bresle. Bise 1, a stone column believed to
Hôtel Maine moderate The Vallée de la Bresle has been a be a Druidic monument dating from
Once a hotel attached to Eu railway centre of glassmaking since the early Gaulish times. A little further on are
station, the Maine has more style than
most small-town hotels, with striking Middle Ages when it was a cottage the giant remains of one of the
modern decor in many of the rooms. industry, making use of the area’s forest’s largest and most famous
The restaurant, in a gorgeous Art sandy soil. Today, there are huge glass trees, the Quesne à Leu 2, which fell
Nouveau dining room, has a refined
approach to Norman cuisine.
20 avenue de la Gare, 76260; 02 35 86
16 64; www.hotel-maine.com
AROUND EU 3065& %& #&"6.0/5
#PJT M "CCÊ 3PVUF $MÊNFOUJOF
Manoir de Beaumont inexpensive
A beautiful bed-and-breakfast in a
former hunting lodge on the edge of
the forest 3 km (2 miles) south of Eu,
with superb hilltop views. 2VFTOF Æ -FV
Route de Beaumont, 76260; 02 35 50
91 91; www.demarquet.com 1JFSSF #JTF
LE TRÉPORT 3PVUF 'PSFTUJÍSF 4U .BSUJO
4JÍHF .BEBNF
Hôtel de Calais inexpensive 3PVUF -PVJTF
Guests get an immediate tang of the
sea at this classic old hotel, right on Le 3065& %& -" 105&3*&
Tréport’s quayside. Novelist Victor 3PVUF 5PVSOBOUF
Hugo stayed here in 1835. Rooms have
been kept attractively up-to-date, and 0 metres 500
several have great views. $IFNJO /PJS
1 rue de la Commune de Paris, 76470; 02 0 yards 500 3065& %& .0/$):
27 28 09 09; www.hoteldecalais.com
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150