Page 73 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 5: Forests and Gardens 71

Bellevue at Beaumont-le-Hareng
(open daily) is quite the oppo site. It
is an extraordinary hillside estate
created by the Lemonnier family
with rare and exotic trees and plants
from around the world. Unusually,
it has different plants in bloom all
year round.
ª Drive on from the Jardins de
Bellevue up the D97 to Rosay, and turn
left on the D154 to Bellencombre. Turn
up the steep, winding D99 for
Pommeréval to cross the Forêt d’Eawy.
9 Forêt d’Eawy Above La Ferme de Bray, a remarkable farm-
Seine-Maritime, Haute-Normandie; 0 Neufchâtel-en-Bray museum Below Reconstruction of a World
76680 Seine-Maritime, Haute-Normandie; War II V1 bomb at Val-Ygot
Extending north from St-Saëns, the 76270
Forêt d’Eawy is another of this Neufchâtel-en-Bray was the former
region’s giant beech woods, once a capital of the Pays de Bray region. It
royal hunting ground. It stretched holds the region’s largest market
over an area of 65 sq km (25 sq miles). every Saturday, with a special sec-
With its church nestling in a valley, tion for local products. The town is
Bellencombre is one of its loveliest the best place to find the area’s
villages. Visitors should look out for specialities such as duck terrines
superb views as they climb out of and Neufchâtel cheese. It is enjoy-
the village on the D99, which crosses able to explore the surround ing VISITING NEUFCHÂTEL
ENBRAY
the Allée des Limousins, a splendid villages and to find farms that sell
bridle path that cuts through the cheeses or meats directly to visitors. Tourist Information
forest for 14 km (9 miles). In the shade There are also fine cider and 6 place Notre-Dame, 76270; 02 35 93
of the trees by the roadside at Val- Calvados producers, like the Clos du 22 96; www.ot-pays-neufchatelois.fr
Ygot is an unusual World War II site Bourg at St-Saire. Enquire at the
with a recon struction of a V1 bomb Neufchâtel tourist office for details. EAT AND DRINK
and the ramp from which it was ª Leave Neufchâtel on the D1314,
FORGESLESEAUX
launched. In 1944, the Germans used for Londinières-Eu-Le Tréport. At Le
this as a base to bombard London. Mesnil-Réaume, take the D58 right to Hôtel de la Paix
inexpensive–moderate
ª At Pommeréval, turn right onto the Monchy-sur-Eu, follow it through the
This cosy hotel-restaurant has long
D915, and then left onto the D48 village and into the small road on the
been renowned for the fine cooking of
following signs for Neufchâtel. left at the start of the forest, then chef Rémy Michel and his team – from
turn left at the “Carrefour Isabelle” to Norman classics to intricate fish dishes.
17 rue de Neufchâtel, 76440; 02 35 90
Cheese with a Heart join Route de la Poterie. Follow this
51 22; www.hotellapaix.fr;
First recorded in 1035, Neufchâtel is forest road, and park in the clearing closed Sun evenings
by far the oldest of the great where it meets the road from Eu.
Norman cheeses, and the only one STSAËNS
from north of the Seine. It is still Le Relais Normand moderate
only produced on small farms in With tables on St-Saëns town square
the Pays de Bray. With a soft, pow- in summer, this popular restaurant
dery texture and a subtly dry taste, offers enjoyable menus of skilfully-
for aficionados it has more charac- prepared Norman dishes and a good
ter than the creamier Norman range of one-course options.
cheeses. Excellent for cooking, most 21 place Maintenon, 76680; 02 35 34
Neufchâtel is white and has a short 38 93; closed Sun evenings and Wed
life; aged or vieux Neufchâtel takes
on a brown colour, and is extremely NEUFCHÂTELENBRAY
strong. Neufchâtel is made in several Les Airelles
traditional shapes – cylinders, rect- inexpensive–moderate
angles and, the best known, hearts A great €17 menu is available from
(coeurs). According to legend, this Tuesday evening to Friday midday,
shape was invented by Norman serving cuisine moderne dishes such
milkmaids during the Hundred as rump steak with forest herbs and
Years’ War in order to “soften the lamb flavoured with thyme, all in a
hearts” of English soldiers. pleasant terrace setting.
2 passage Michu, 76270; 02 35 93 14 60
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40