Page 71 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 5: Forests and Gardens 69

EAT AND DRINK
4 Château de Vascoeuil
Vascoeuil, Eure, Haute-Normandie;
GIVERNY
27910
Ancien Hôtel Baudy
Built from the 12th to the 17th
moderate
centuries, this impressive turreted
Painters such as Cézanne and Sisley
stone manor house became famous often stayed at this historic village
as the home of the historian and hotel when they came to visit Monet
writer Jules Michelet (1798–1874), and at Giverny. The bar, dining room and
gardens have a bohemian feel, with
part of it is now a museum dedicated
paintings around the walls. It offers
to him. Since the 1970s, Vascoeuil has
good value dishes and plats du jour.
also hosted contemporary art exhi- 81 rue Claude Monet, 27620; 02 32 21
bitions. Around the château there is 10 03; closed Sun evenings and Mon,
a sculpture garden, with works by and Nov–Mar
Dalí, Vasarely, Léger and other artists AROUND GIVERNY
distributed around the lawns.
Auberge du Prieuré Normand
ª On the right while leaving the expensive
castle, cross over the N31 onto the Philippe Robert prepares some of
D12 for Ry. the best food in the area at this
unassuming, comfortable restaurant,
7 km (4 miles) north of Giverny.
5 Ry and Vallée de l’Héron 1 place de la République, Gasny, 27620;
Seine-Maritime, Haute-Normandie; 02 32 52 10 01; closed Wed and Aug
76116, 76750
LYONSLAFORÊT
The suicide of a doctor’s wife at Ry
in 1848 was the the incident that Les Lions de Beauclerc
3 Lyons-la-Forêt inspired Gustave Flaubert’s novel inexpensive–moderate
Menus here are an attractive mix, from
Eure, Haute-Normandie; 27480 Madame Bovary, and many of the substantial grills or roasts to crêpes,
This astonishingly well-preserved town’s buildings can be closely salads and other light dishes. It is also
village of Norman colombage houses identified with those in the book. an enjoyable hotel, with six charming
rooms plushly decorated with antiques.
has often been used as a film set, Follow signs to Elbeuf-sur-Andelle
7 rue de l’Hôtel de Ville, 27480; 02 32 49
especially the stunning main square (D13) and turn left to the east onto
18 90; closed Tue
with its 18th-century timber Halle the Héron Valley road, the D46,
La Halle inexpensive–moderate
(market hall). The village has had a towards Buchy. The road runs by the
Friendly young staff give this bar-bistro
varied history: Henry I, King of Héron river up one of the region’s
a fresh style, so the menu might include
England and ruler of Normandy, died prettiest valleys, with lovely views light pasta dishes with seafood as well
here in 1135, and composer Maurice near Le Héron, Héronchelles and as Norman meats in cider sauces. The
Ravel came here to write amid rural Yville. Detour right above Yville to terrace in front is a great spot for
admiring the village architecture.
tranquillity in the 1920s. The Forêt de Bois Guilbert and Bois-Héroult before
6 place Benserade, 27480; 02 32 49 49
Lyons around it, once a hunting- rejoining the D41 to Buchy. Bois-
92; closed Sun evenings and Wed
ground of the Norman dukes, is one Guilbert and Bois-Héroult, outside
of the largest and densest beech the main valley, each have 17th- and
forests in Europe, crossed by 18th-century châteaux amid fine
excellent walking and cycling routes. gardens, and Buchy, has a 17th-
ª Take “Toutes directions”; take the century timber-frame market hall. Top Turreted Château de Vascoeuil Above
first left and then right onto the D321. ª At the crossroads in the centre Thatched cottage, Lyons-la-Forêt Below left
Take a left onto the D6, signed for Les of Buchy take the D919 to reach Château de Bois-Guilbert Below right Fresh
Taisnières, Les Hogues et Château de Forges-les-Eaux. strawberries on sale
Vascoeuil. Take the road right in Les
Hogues, then left in Vascoeuil.
Henry and the Lampreys
Henry I of England died in 1135 in
Lyons-la-Forêt’s now long-destroyed
castle, supposedly from eating
too many lampreys, the river eels
that were considered a delicacy at
medi eval courts. Known as Henri
Beauclerc because of his reputation
for learn ing, he was also extremely
cruel. He had more illegitimate
chil dren than any other English king.