Page 76 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

74 BACK ROADS FRANCE

r Dieppe
Seine-Maritime, Haute-Normandie; 76200
Dieppe’s giant harbour is the source of its distinctive maritime
character. It has enabled Dieppe to play many roles, from Viking
stronghold to home port for explorers and pirates and, later, a link
between France and Britain. It also became France’s first-ever beach
resort, and has retained its mix of energy and easy-going streetlife.

Quai Henri IV, along the north side prison in England in 1897. Rising up
of the port, is lined with cafés and on a lofty crag beside the old town is
restaurants that are ideal places to the 15th-century Château-Musée
relax and watch the movement in (open daily Jun–Sep, Wed–Mon Oct–
the harbour. Rising up above the east Mar), with pinnacle-roofed turrets
side of the port is the tower of the and a sweeping view. Highlights of
regal Gothic church of St-Jacques. Its the collection inside are paintings by
size and opulence reflect the wealth artists associated with Dieppe such
of Dieppe’s shipowners in the 15th as Pissarro, Braque and Sickert, and
and 16th centuries, when they sailed relics of the town’s maritime past,
to Canada, Africa and Brazil and including an astonishing collection
engaged in piracy as well as trade. of intricately carved ivory pieces.
On three days each week the The Duchesse de Berry introduced
Above Pinnacle-roofed turrets of Château- squares and streets around St-Jacques the new fashion for sea bathing to
Musée, Dieppe Below left Yachts line the are filled with a wonderful market, France in Dieppe in 1824. The beach
harbour at Dieppe Below right Café des with every kind of local product. is a long shingle bank, with a prome-
Tribunaux, Dieppe There are also many eye-catching nade separated from the town by a
permanent shops along the Grande swimming pool, a playground, gar-
Rue and adjacent streets, especially dens and other attractions. A garden
for luxury foods such as fine wines, at one end of the beach below the
VISITING DIEPPE
cheeses and high-quality chocolates. château is now the Square du
Throughout the 19th century Canada, in memory of the losses
Tourist Information
Pont Jehan-Ango; 02 32 14 40 60; Dieppe was an important point of suffered by Canadian troops in the
www.dieppetourisme.com contact between the French and Dieppe Raid of August 1942. There is
British artistic worlds. The Café des also a nearby museum, the Mémorial
Parking
There is plenty of parking, some for Tribunaux with its clock tower above du 19 Août 1942 (open Wed–Mon Jun–
free, in Dieppe on the seafront, along Place du Puits Salé, where the Grande Sep, Sat & Sun Easter–May and Oct–Nov).
Boulevard Verdun and Boulevard Rue meets Rue St-Jacques, is one of ª Just below the Château-Musée at
Maréchal Foch.
France’s most impo sing grand cafés. Place des Martyrs, take the D75,
Shopping It was a celebrated artists’ meet ing signed for Pourville, which runs
L’Épicier Olivier has magnificent place and is most associated with steeply uphill and out of Dieppe
displays of fine wines, ciders, preserves
and Normandy cheeses, including writer Oscar Wilde, who fled to towards Pourville-sur-Mer and the
best-quality Neufchâtel. Dieppe after he was released from next stop at Varengeville.
16 rue St-Jacques
WHERE TO STAY
DIEPPE
Au Grand Duquesne inexpensive
The most characterful of Dieppe’s
hotels, located right on the main
shopping street.
15 place St-Jacques, Dieppe, 76200; 02
32 14 61 10; augrandduquesne.free.fr
Villa des Capucins moderate
A wall in the fishing quarter of Pollet
conceals the garden of this splendid
19th-century house. The rooms, along-
side the garden, are snug and pretty.
11 rue des Capucins, Dieppe, 76200;
02 35 82 16 52;
www.villa-des-capucins.fr