Page 77 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 5: Forests and Gardens 75

t Varengeville-sur-Mer
Seine-Maritime, Haute-Normandie;
76119
The coast road west of Dieppe has
magnificent views, especially above
the beach of Pourville-sur-Mer. The
beauty of Varengeville, spread through
woods above the cliffs further on, has
long attracted artists and the wealthy.
The 12th-century clifftop church has
windows by modern artist Georges
Braque (1882–1963), who is buried in
the churchyard. Inland from the village
is the Manoir d’Ango (open daily May–
Sep), a mix of Norman farm and Above Clifftop church at Varengeville-sur-Mer
Renaissance manor, built for Dieppe appointment), built in 1898 by English Below Gardens at Bois des Moutiers
shipowner-buccaneer Jehan Ango in architect Edwin Lutyens and garden
the 1540s. More unusual are the house designer Gertrude Jekyll for banker EAT AND DRINK
and gardens of the Bois des Moutiers Guillaume Mallet, to reflect his
(open daily mid-May–mid-Nov; house by theosophist beliefs. DIEPPE
Café des Tribunaux
Pirate Dieppe inexpensive–moderate
Having a coffee at the Tribunaux is
In the 16th century, Dieppe’s hardy
seamen made voyages of explora- obligatory just to take in its historical
tion virtually on their own account associations, but it also has brasserie-
and carried on their own private style menu of grills and snacks.
1 place du Puits-Salé, 76200; 02 32 14
wars. They sailed to the Americas, 44 65
Africa and East Asia, bringing back
spices, ivory and tropical woods. Restaurant du Port
Many voyages were sponsored by moderate–expensive
the legendary shipowner Jehan Chef Michel Mouny’s Du Port has fish
Ango (1480–1551), the richest man dishes as a highlight.
in Dieppe. He was given permission 99 quai Henri IV, 76200; 02 35 84 36 64;
by King François I (1494-1547) to closed Wed evening and Thu
attack ships, other than the French VARENGEVILLESURMER
ones, and his voyages were a
combination of commercial venture Auberge du Relais
and pirate raid. In the 1520s, he moderate–expensive
fought his own war with Portugal off Excellent seafood dishes are served on
the coast of Brazil. Ango spread the a pleasant terrace close to the sea.
loot he gained widely around his There’s a reasonable wine list, too.
hometown, and ever since has been Route Dieppe, 76119; 02 35 83 64 04;
remembered as a local hero. closed Jan, Sun evening and Mon out
of season
DAYTRIP OPTIONS with a walk in the dense woods other country foods from the small-
To go directly to the Pays de Bray around Lyons-la-Forêt 3. town markets.
from the Paris area, take the A16
autoroute to Beauvais (exit 14) and From Lyons, take the D31 road through From Neufchâtel, make a quick return
then the Gournay-en-Bray road to Fleury-sur-Andelle to return to the to the A28 autoroute at junction 9.
Seine Valley and the main north–
Forges-les-Eaux; from the north, take The Alabaster Coast
south autoroute.
the A28 and leave at exit 10. For the Beaches, sea views, fine food and
coast, follow the A28 from either The Bray countryside history can all fill a day beginning
direction, and take exit 5 for Eu and Those looking for a real sense of with an exploration of the little-
Le Tréport. the countryside have the option of known charms of Eu w before
Monet and the forest spending a day in the Bray valleys going on to Le Tréport e and
Get to Giverny 1 early to avoid the between Forges-les-Eaux 6, Dieppe r.
crowds, and then wander up the St-Saëns 8 and Neufchâtel-en- From Dieppe, take the D927 Rouen
Seine to Les Andelys 2 for lunch by Bray 0. Visitors will have the oppor- road for Paris and the south, or the
the river. Then visit Château- tunity to see the remarkable gardens D915 Forges road, back to the A28 for
Gaillard, before ending the day here and buy fine cheeses and the route to the north and east.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40