Page 82 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

80 BACK ROADS FRANCE

1 Honfleur
Calvados, Basse-Normandie; 14600
Honfleur is unique. Its inner harbour or Vieux Bassin is flanked by
slate-fronted six- or seven-storey houses, bizarrely tall for the time
when they were built in the 17th century. Later, the town became a
hub for Impressionist painters, first led here by artist Eugène Boudin,
born in Honfleur in 1824. Today, the town offers a huge choice of
restaurants and some of Normandy’s most stylish hotels.

A two-hour walking tour against the steep sides of the harbour
Try to park by Quai de la Tour, on the to maximize space, and with roofs
east side of the old town. Walk along that are a crazy mixture of heights. At
Cour des Fossés past the tourist office the end of the quay, guarding the
and turn right onto Rue de la Ville, the entrance to the Vieux Bassin, is the
oldest part of Honfleur. On the right is imposing stone Lieutenance 4, the
the massive Greniers à Sel 1 or salt 16th-century former governor’s
warehouse, built in 1670 residence. In 1608, Samuel
Above Steps leading up to the impressive when salt was a royal Champlain sailed from here
16th-century Lieutenance Below Boats monopoly. It is now used for to found the French colony
anchored in the Vieux Bassin in Honfleur exhibitions. Turn down the of Québec.
alley opposite the Greniers Turn left at the end of
and turn left down Rue de Quai Ste-Catherine and
la Prison towards the two cross Place Hamelin to walk
VISITING HONFLEUR
parts of the Musées du up Rue de l’Homme-de-
Tourist information Vieux Honfleur 2. The first Bois, which has intimate
Quai Lepaulmier, 14600; 02 31 89 23 includes part of the old restaurants and fine craft
30; www.ot-honfleur.fr town prison and engaging jewellers. A short way along
Parking reconstruc tions of rooms in Typical façade of a is the Musée Eugène
There are large paid car parks around traditional Augeron houses. building, Honfleur Boudin 5, with works by
the old town, the most convenient Beyond it is the Quai Boudin and other artists
next to Quai de la Tour. There are St-Étienne, where visitors get the associa ted with Honfleur, including
some free car parking spaces on Rue
Haute and off Boulevard Charles V, first spectacular view of the Vieux Monet, Jongkind, Courbet and Dufy.
but they are in great demand, Bassin 3. To the left is the other half Walk down the alley opposite the
especially in summer. of the museum on mari time history, Musée Eugène Boudin and turn left
in the former church of St-Étienne. on Rue Haute to pass the Maisons
Walk around the quays, checking Satie 6, birthplace of the eccentric
WHERE TO STAY
out which of their terrace restaurants composer Erik Satie (1866–1925). It is
HONFLEUR to come back to for lunch. The most now a museum that gives a wonder ful
unusual multistorey houses line Quai insight into his special world. Continue
Hôtel des Loges moderate
Very chic modern design and subtle Ste-Catherine on the west side, built along Rue Haute and take the next
colour schemes combined with a
splendid old Honfleur house.
18 rue Brûlée, 14600; 02 31 89 38 26;
www.hoteldesloges.com
L’Absinthe moderate–expensive
A special hotel in a restored 16th-
century presbytery, it luxuriously
blends modern features with the
style of the original building. The
nearby Absinthe restaurant is one
of Honfleur’s most refined.
1 rue de la Ville, 14600; 02 31 89 23 23;
www.absinthe.fr
TROUVILLESURMER
Hôtel Le Central moderate
The location is excellent for getting in
touch with Trouville’s buzzy joie de vivre,
with rooms right above one of the
classic brasseries.
5–7 rue des Bains, 14360; 02 31 88
80 84; www.le-central-trouville.com