Page 151 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Rome

C A MPO DE ’ FIORI  149

carried out in order to open this d’Arpino’s Virgin and Saints
site to the public, but at present (second chapel to the left); and
it is only possible to visit by a painting by Borgognone
special arrangement. (1677) of the Virgin and recently
A ramp leads down well below canonized saints. In the sacristy
today’s street level, to reveal the are depictions of the nobility
locations of stores of the time. washing the feet of pilgrims, a
One level above is the Stanza custom started by San Filippo.
della Colonna, at one time an
open courtyard, with traces of
frescoes and mosaics on its walls. 6 Palazzo Spada
Piazza Capo di Ferro 13. Map 2 F5. Tel
06-6821 2743 (Palazzo) or 06-683 2409
(Galleria). @ 23, 116, 280, and routes Offertory box in Santa Maria dell’Orazione
to Largo di Torre Argentina. v 8. e Morte
Galleria Spada: Open 8:30am–7:30pm
daily (last adm: 7pm). Closed Jan 1, of death is stressed in this
Dec 25. & ^ 7 8 = church, dedicated to St. Mary of
Prayer and Death. The doors
This majestic palazzo, built and windows of Ferdinando
around 1550 for Cardinal Capo Fuga’s dramatic Baroque facade
di Ferro, has an elegant are decorated with winged
stuccoed courtyard and facade skulls. Above the central
decorated with reliefs evoking entrance there is a clepsydra
Rome’s glorious past. (an ancient hourglass) –
Cardinal Bernardino Spada, symbolic of death.
who lived here in the 17th
century with his brother Virginio
(also a cardinal), hired architects 8 Palazzo Farnese
Bernini and Borromini to work
Guido Reni’s Holy Trinity, in Santissima on the building. The brothers’ Piazza Farnese. Map 4 E5 & 11 B4.
Tel 06-686 011. @ 23, 116, 280, and
Trinità dei Pellegrini whimsical delight in false routes to Corso Vittorio Emanuele II.
perspectives resulted in a Open for guided tours only (Mon, Wed,
5 Santissima Trinità colonnaded gallery by & Fri, in English). Times vary. Reserve at
dei Pellegrini Borromini that appears four least one week in advance at www.
times longer than it really is. inventerrome.com &
Via dei Pettinari 36A. Map 4 E5 & 11 C5. The cardinals also amassed
Tel 06-686 8451. @ 23, 116, 280, and a superb private collection of The prototype for numerous
routes to Largo di Torre Argentina. paintings, which is now on princely palaces, the imposing
v 8. Open 4–8pm Mon–Sat;
8am–1pm & 4–8pm Sun. display in the Galleria Spada. The Palazzo Farnese was originally
collection features a wide range built for Cardinal Alessandro
The church was donated in the of artists, including Rubens, Farnese (who became Pope Paul
16th century to a charitable Dürer, and Guido Reni. The most III in 1534). He commissioned
organization founded by San important works on display the greatest artists to work on it,
Filippo Neri to care for the include The Visitation by Andrea starting with Antonio da Sangallo
poor and sick, in particular del Sarto (1486–1530), Cain and the Younger as architect in 1517.
the thousands of paupers who Abel by Giovanni Lanfranco Michelangelo, who took over
flocked in pilgrimage to Rome (1582–1647), and The Death of after him, contributed the great
during the special holy years Dido by Guercino (1591–1666). cornice and central window of
known as Jubilees. The 18th- the main facade, and the third
century facade has niches with 7 Santa Maria level of the courtyard.
statues of the Evangelists by Michelangelo had a plan
Bernardino Ludovisi. The dell’Orazione for the Farnese gardens to be
interior, with Corinthian e Morte con nected by a bridge to the
columns, ends in a horseshoe Farnese home in Trastevere,
vault and apse, dominated by Via Giulia 262. Map 4 E5 & 11 B4. Villa Farnesina (see pp220–21).
Tel 06-6880 6862. @ 23, 116, 280.
Guido Reni’s striking altarpiece Closed for restoration. The elegant arch spanning Via
of the Holy Trinity (1625). The Crypt: Open 4–6pm Sat & Sun. Giulia belongs to this unrealized
frescoes in the lantern are also scheme. The palazzo was
by Reni. Other interesting A pious confraternity was completed in 1589, on a less
paintings include St. Gregory formed here in the 16th century ambitious scale, by Giacomo
the Great Freeing Souls from to collect the bodies of the della Porta. It is now the home
Purgatory, by Baldassarre Croce unknown dead and give them of the French Embassy, which
(third chapel to the left); Cavalier a Christian burial. The theme moved in as early as 1635.

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