Page 127 - Wine Spectator (January 2020)

New Releases: Italy
ITALY
Tuscany / Toscana
98 Antinori Toscana Solaia 2016 $340 See
Collectibles, page 101.
95 Tenuta di Trinoro Toscana Campo di Tena-
glia 2017 $110 Deep and brooding, this young red is
packed with black currant, blackberry, violet, wild rose-
mary, iron and baking spice flavors. Dense and powerful,
with aggressive tannins shoring up the long, resonant af-
tertaste. Best from 2023 through 2036. 133 cases made,
55 cases imported.—B.S.
94 Castello di Ama Toscana L’Apparita 2016
$230 Ripe and intense, exuding plum, black cherry,
olive and tobacco flavors. Succulent and stays long on the
finish, even as the firm, dense tannins flex their muscles.
Best from 2022 through 2032. 670 cases made, 60 cases
imported.—B.S.
94 Tenuta di Biserno Toscana Biserno 2016
$200 Black currant, violet, mint, bell pepper, tobacco
and spice aromas and flavors permeate this red. Lean and
taut, with fine overall balance and plenty of reserve in
the tank. Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon
and Petit Verdot. Best from 2023 through 2035. 2,083
cases made, 500 cases imported.—B.S.
94 Carpineta Fontalpino Toscana Do ut des
2016 $60 Sleek and focused, with black currant, black
cherry, plum, iron and tobacco flavors coursing through
from start to finish. Tightly wound and vibrant, this lin-
gers with subtle licorice and spice elements. Shows fine
harmony and length. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and
Petit Verdot. Best from 2023 through 2036. 1,650 cases
made, 200 cases imported.—B.S.
94 Tenuta di Trinoro Toscana Campo di Camagi
2017 $110 A supple, fluid red, this exhibits black cur-
rant, black cherry, iron, tobacco and toasty oak flavors.
This firms up as it builds toward the long finish. Very pure
and elegant. Best from 2021 through 2033. 116 cases
made, 45 cases imported.—B.S.
94 Castello di Volpaia Toscana Balifico 2016
$80 A rich, fluid style, boasting black cherry, black cur- Cabernet Franc. Best from 2021 through 2030. 1,000 cases
rant, violet and leather flavors. Supple, yet firmly struc- made, 250 cases imported.—B.S.
tured, with dense tannins emerging on the long finish.
This needs a year or two to come together fully and should
age beautifully. Best from 2021 through 2035. 1,833 cases
made, 125 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Tenuta di Biserno Toscana Il Pino di Biserno
2017 $80 Intense, displaying concentrated dark fruit
flavors of blackberry, plum and cassis, with a hint of cedar.
Polished, balanced and hard to resist now due to the ex-
pressive profile of ripe fruit. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon,
Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through
2028. 5,833 cases made, 500 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Tenuta di Trinoro Toscana Campo di Magna-
costa 2017 $110 This ripe red exudes plum, black
cherry, wild thyme and oak spice flavors. Balanced and
lively, showing excellent length and energy on the finish.
Best from 2022 through 2033. 133 cases made, 55 cases
imported.—B.S.
92 Rocca delle Macìe Cabernet Sauvignon To-
scana Roccato 2015 $58 A thickly textured red,
boasting plum, fruitcake, milk chocolate, leather, earth
and spice notes. Dense, tannic and rigid on the finish for
now. Best from 2021 through 2030. 550 cases made, 50
cases imported.—B.S.
92 Tenuta Sette Ponti Toscana Oreno 2017 $115
A big, brawny red, this delivers flavors of black cherry,
plum and spice, with hints of wild rosemary. Ends with a
dry feel and lightly astringent tannins that may upset the
balance as this ages, but stays fresh overall. Merlot, Cab-
ernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Best from 2021 through
2028. 5,500 cases made, 1,500 cases imported.—B.S.
92 Tenuta di Trecciano Toscana Daniello 2017
$35 Reductive aromas of egg and barnyard give way to
rich black cherry, plum, underbrush and oak spice flavors.
This gets better with air, smooth and fluid midpalate, turn- $20 A solid showing of plum, licorice, leather and to-
ing a little dry on the finish. Black olive and toasty oak
accents linger. Decant now. Cabernet Sauvignon, Caber-
net Franc and Syrah. Best from 2023 through 2032. 1,000
cases made, 500 cases imported.—B.S.
89 Tenuta Monteti Toscana Caburnio 2015 $20
This is juicy and reveals black cherry, blackberry, cedar,
tobacco and oak spice flavors. Firms up as the lightly
chewy finish rolls out. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and
Alicante Bouschet. Drink now through 2024. 8,800 cases
made, 3,200 cases imported.—B.S.
ITALY
Tuscany / Other Red
93 Montepeloso Costa Toscana Gabbro 2016
$110 Very fresh, this red is dense and expressive, featur- to the range of flavor. The silky tannins create a pleasing
ing plum, black cherry, black currant, cedar, sage, earth
and spice flavors. Muscular and compact on the grip-filled
finish. Best from 2023 through 2035. 250 cases made.—B.S.
92 Antinori Bolgheri Tenuta Guado al Tasso
Cont’Ugo 2017 $55 Rich and fruity, this balanced
red offers black cherry and blackberry flavors. Smooth and
vibrant, with fine length on the finish. Drink now. 500
cases imported.—B.S.
92 Bindella Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Te-
nuta Vallocaia 2016 $26 Cherry, strawberry, loam,
iron and tobacco aromas and flavors hold court in this
lean, sinewy red. A dense matrix of tannins lends support,
while the racy acidity drives the length, giving this a
mouthwatering impression. Sangiovese and Colorino. Best
from 2022 through 2032. 4,900 cases made, 600 cases
imported.—B.S.
92 Tenuta Sette Cieli Bolgheri noi4 2016 $45
Top notes of jasmine and rose add perfume to the cherry
and blackberry core in this concentrated red. Elegant yet
firmly structured, with dense, dusty tannins gripping the
finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and
90 Lanciola Chianti Colli Fiorentini 2017 $15
Black cherry, black currant, leather, earth and almond
flavors mark this red. Fresh and balanced, lingering nicely
on the finish. Sangiovese and Canaiolo. Drink now through
2024. 5,000 cases made, 2,500 cases imported.—B.S.
89 Argentiera Bolgheri Poggio ai Ginepri 2017
bacco flavors marks this medium-bodied red, finishing
with a light herbal note. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot,
Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Drink now through
2027. 16,666 cases made, 4,166 cases imported.—B.S.
ITALY
Veneto
94 Tommasi Amarone della Valpolicella
Classico De Buris Riserva 2009 $300 A beauti-
fully aromatic red, with hints of truffle, loamy earth and
dried mint playing on the nose and accenting the baked
cherry and raspberry fruit, fig cake and coffee liqueur fla-
vors on the palate. Full-bodied and rich, yet finely knit
and elegant overall, with mouthwatering acidity married
viscosity on the lingering finish. Drink now through 2029.
600 cases made, 75 cases imported.—A.N.
93 Tedeschi Amarone della Valpolicella Clas-
sico Capitel Monte Olmi Riserva 2013 $100
Crushed pine and green olive notes lend a savory edge to
this dense, tightly knit red, with baked black currant and
spice box flavors and racy minerality. Sleek and mouthwa-
tering, this full-bodied example shows zesty spice and herb
elements lingering on the grippy finish. Best from 2023
through 2033. 680 cases made, 200 cases imported.—A.N.
92 Michele Castellani Amarone della Valpoli-
cella Classico Rengo 2015 $35 Toffee, dried mint,
singed orange peel and iron accents waft from the glass of
this full-bodied version. On the palate this is less forth-
coming, with flavors of crushed black cherry, melted lico-
rice and espresso cream tightly knit to dense, fine-grained
tannins. Let this mouthwatering red shine with decanting
or short-term cellaring. Best from 2022 through 2032.
2,000 cases made, 2,000 cases imported.—A.N.
92 Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
Costasera Riserva 2013 $90 An elegant version,
medium- to full-bodied and fresh, with a delicate skein of
spice and smoke unwinding through flavors of sun-dried
cherry, fig cake, dried thyme and black tea leaf. Supple
tannins firm the zesty finish. Drink now through 2030.
3,500 cases made, 400 cases imported.—A.N.
JAN. 31 – FEB. 29, 2020 • WINE SPECTATOR 121