Page 107 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Venice & The Veneto

SAN POL O AND SANT A CROCE  105

4 San Cassiano
Campo San Cassiano, San Polo.
Map 2 F5. Tel 041 721 408. 4 San
Stae. Open 9am–noon, 3–7pm daily.
Closed during Mass.
The Medieval Church of San
Cassiano is a bizarre mix of
architectural styles. Of the
original church, which was
restored in the 19th century,
only the campanile survives.
The highlight of the interior is
Jacopo Tintoretto’s immensely
powerful Crucifixion (1568),
which is in the sacristy. A detail of the Gothic façade of Palazzo Soranzo, Campo San Polo
The campo in which the
church stands was notorious Since 1979 the square has of the Cross by Giandomenico
for prostitutes in the 1500s. enjoyed a revival of Carnival Tiepolo. The church also
festivities. This wide-open space has paintings by Veronese,
is also a haven for local Palma il Giovane (the Younger)
5 Campo San Polo youngsters, who ride bikes, and a dark and dramatic
roller-skate or play football. Last Supper by Tintoretto.
Map 6 F1. 4 San Silvestro.
Such activities would not have
The spacious square of San gone down well in the 17th
Polo has traditionally been century – a plaque on the apse
host to spectacular events. As of the church, dated 1611,
far back as the 15th century it forbids all games (or selling
was the venue for festivities, merchandise) on pain of prison,
masquerades, ceremonies, galley service or exile.
balls and bullbaiting.
The most dramatic event was
the assassination of Lorenzino 6 San Polo
de’ Medici in 1548. He had Campo San Polo. Map 6 F1. Tel 041 275
taken refuge in Venice after 04 62. 4 San Silvestro. Open 10am–
brutally killing his cousin 5pm Mon–Sat. Closed 1 Jan, Easter, Carlo Goldoni 1707–93
Alessandro, Duke of Florence. 15 Aug, 25 Dec. & 9 ^ =
Lorenzino was stabbed in the ∑ chorusvenezia.org 7 Casa di Goldoni
square by two assassins who Palazzo Centani, Calle dei Nomboli,
were in the service of Cosimo Founded in the 9th century, San Polo 2794. Map 6 E1. Tel 041 275
de’ Medici, and both were rebuilt in the 15th and 93 25. 4 San Tomà. Open 10am–
handsomely rewarded by the revamped in the early 19th in 4pm Thu–Tue (Apr–Oct: to 5pm).
Florentine duke. Neo-Classical style, the church Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. & =
On the eastern side of the of San Polo lacks any sense of 7 ∑ carlogoldoni.visitmuve.it
square is the beautiful Gothic homogeneity. Yet it is worth
Palazzo Soranzo. This was visiting for individual features Carlo Goldoni, one of the city’s
originally two palaces – the one such as the lovely Gothic portal favourite sons, wrote over 250
on the left is the older. The and the Romanesque lions at comedies, many based on
building is still owned by the the foot of the 14th-century commedia dell’arte figures.
Soranzo family. campanile – one holds a Goldoni was born in the
Palazzo Corner Mocenigo, serpent between its paws, beautiful Gothic Palazzo
which is situated in the the other a human head. Centani (or Zantani) in 1707.
northwest corner (No. 2128), Inside, follow the signs for The house was left to the city
was once the residence of the the Via Crucis del Tiepolo – in 1931 and is now a centre for
eccentric English writer Frederick 14 canvases of the Stations theatrical studies and has a
Rolfe (1860–1913), alias Baron collection of theatrical
Corvo. He was thrown out memorabilia. The
of his lodgings when his enchanting courtyard
English hostess read has a 15th-century
his manuscript of The open stairway and a
Desire and Pursuit of magnificent wellhead,
the Whole – a cruel which features carved
satirization of English lions and a coat of arms
society in Venice. A lion at the foot of the campanile, Church of San Polo bearing a hedgehog.

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