Page 110 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Venice & The Veneto

108  VENICE AREA B Y AREA

9 Scuola Grande di the world’s largest work of art
San Rocco on canvas), depicting the
martyrdom and apotheosis of
See pp110–11. the physician St Pantalon. The
artist, Gian Antonio Fumiani,
took 24 years (1680–1704) to
0 San Rocco achieve this masterpiece, but
Campo San Rocco, San Polo. then he allegedly fell to his
Map 6 D1. Tel 041 523 48 64. 4 San death from the scaffolding.
Tomà. Open 9:30am–5:30pm daily. Paolo Veronese’s emotive
∑ scuolagrandesanrocco.it painting St Pantalon Healing a
Boy (second chapel on the
Sharing the little square with the right) was his final work of art
celebrated Scuola Grande di San (1587). To see Antonio Vivarini Lombardo’s marble screen and portal,
Rocco is the church of the same and Giovanni d’Alemagna’s San Giovanni Evangelista
name. Designed by Bartolomeo Coronation of the Virgin (1444)
Bon in 1489 and largely rebuilt and The Annunciation (1350), and in the arch crowning the
in 1725, the exterior is a mix of attributed to Paolo Veneziano, portal there is a magnificent
architectural styles. The façade ask the custodian for access to carved eagle representing
was added in 1765–71. the Chapel of the Holy Nail St John the Evangelist.
Inside, the main interest lies (Cappella del Sacro Chiodo). The main hall of the Scuola
in Tintoretto’s paintings in the is reached via a splendid 15th-
chancel, which depict scenes w San Nicolò century double stairway by
from the life of St Roch, patron Mauro Coducci (1498). Large,
saint of contagious diseases. da Tolentino dark canvases decorate
Of these the most notable is Campo dei Tolentini, Santa Croce. the ceiling and walls of the
St Roch Curing the Plague Map 5 C1. Tel 041 522 21 60. 18th-century hall. The Scuola’s
Victims (1549). 4 Piazzale Roma. Open 8am–noon, greatest art treasure, the cycle
4–7pm daily. Closed during Mass. of paintings depicting The Stories
∑ tolentini.it of the Cross, is now on display in
the Accademia gallery (see p137).
Close to Piazzale Roma It formerly embellished the
(see p271) is this imposing oratory (off the main hall)
17th-century church with a where the Reliquary of the True
Classical portico. The interior, Cross is still carefully preserved.
decorated with 17th-century
paintings, is the resting place r San Giacomo
of Francesco Morosini (d.1678),
the Venetian patriarch. dell’Orio
A cannonball embedded in Campo San Giacomo dell’Orio, Santa
the façade is a memento of an Croce. Map 2 E5. Tel 041 275 04 62.
Austrian bombardment during 4 Riva di Biasio or San Stae. Open
the siege of 1849. 10am–5pm Mon–Sat. Closed 1 Jan,
Easter, 15 Aug, 25 Dec. & 9 ^
e San Giovanni ∑ chorusvenezia.org
Evangelista This church is a focal point of
Campiello de la Scuola, San Polo. a quiet quarter of Santa Croce.
Fumiani’s ceiling painting (1680–1704), Map 6 D1. Tel 041 71 82 34. 4 San The name “dell’Orio” (locally
San Pantalon Tomà. Open 9:30am–5pm on days “dall’Orio”) may derive from
when no events are being held, check a laurel tree (alloro) that once
q San Pantalon website for details. & Church & stood near the church.
Scuola. ∑ scuolasangiovanni.it Founded in the 9th century,
Campo San Pantalon, Dorsoduro. Map
6 D2. Tel 041 523 58 93. 4 San Tomà, rebuilt in 1225 and repeatedly
Piazzale Roma. Open 10am–noon, A confraternity of flagellants modified, it is a mix of architec-
1–3pm Mon–Sat. ∑ sanpantalon.it founded the Scuola of St John tural styles. The basilica ground
the Evangelist in 1261. The plan, campanile and Byzantine
The overwhelming feature of complex, just north of the Frari columns survive from the 13th
this late 17th-century church is (see pp106–7), has a church, century. The ship’s keel roof and
the painted ceiling, dark, awe- scuola, a bookshop and the columns are from the Gothic
inspiring and remarkable for its courtyard. Separating the period and the apses are Renais-
illusionistic effects. The ceiling square from the street is Pietro sance. The sacristy ceiling was
comprises a total of 40 scenes Lombardo’s elegant white and decorated by Veronese and there
(admirers claim this makes it grey screen and portal (1480), are some gripping altar paintings.

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