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SAN  POL O  AND  SANT A  CROCE      109

       t Museo di Storia   in 1709 by Domenico Rossi.   i Ca’ Pesaro
       Naturale            Works by Piazzetta, Tiepolo and   Canal Grande, Santa Croce 2076.
                           other 18th-century artists adorn
       Canal Grande, Santa Croce 1730. Map 2   the chancel. Near the second altar   Map 2 F5. 4 San Stae. Galleria d’Arte
       E4. Tel 041 275 02 06. 4 San Stae.    on the left is the bust of Antonio   Moderna & Museo Orientale: Tel 041
       Open Nov–May: 9am–5pm Tue–Fri,   Foscarini, executed for treason in   72 11 27. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun
       10am–6pm Sat & Sun; Jun–Oct: 10am–   1622 but pardoned the next year.  (Nov–Mar: to 5pm); ticket office closes
       6pm Tue–Sun. & ∑ msn.visitmuve.it       1 hour earlier. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25
                                               Dec. ^ - = 7 8 & combined
       The Fondaco dei Turchi, which           ticket. ∑ capesaro.visitmuve.it
       houses Venice’s Natural History
       Museum has a chequered                  It took 58 years to complete
       history. In the 13th century it         this magnificent Baroque
       was one of the largest palazzi on       palace. Built for the Pesaro
       the Grand Canal. In 1381 it was         family, it was the masterpiece
       bought by the state for the Dukes       of Baldassare Longhena, who
       of Ferrara and its lavish rooms         worked on it until his death in
       were used for banquets and state        1682. Antonio Gaspari then
       functions. In 1621 the Turks set        took over Longhena’s design,
       up a warehouse (fondaco), and           eventually completing the
       the portico was used for loading        structure in 1710.
       merchandise. As commerce with             In the 19th century the
       the Orient declined further, the        Duchess of Bevilacqua La Masa
       structure fell into disrepair until,   One of the finely furnished rooms of   bequeathed the palace to the
       roused by Ruskin’s passionate   Palazzo Mocenigo  city for exhibiting the works of
       interest, the Austrians began           unestablished Venetian artists.
       restoration work in the 1850s.  u Palazzo   The Galleria d’Arte Moderna
         Since 1923 the Fondaco has   Mocenigo  was founded in 1897. Today this
       housed the Natural History              features a permanent exhibition
       Museum (Museo di Storia   Salizzada San Stae, Santa Croce 1992.   of work by artists such as
       Naturale). There is a collection of   Map 2 F5. Tel 041 72 17 98. 4 San   Bonnard, Matisse, Miró, Klee,
       stuffed animals, crustacea and   Stae. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun   Klimt and Kandinsky, in addition
       dinosaur fossils and a section on   (Nov–Mar: to 4pm). Closed 1 Jan,    to works by Italian artists of the
                           1 May, 25 Dec. & ^ =
       lagoon life. Prize exhibits include   ∑ mocenigo.visitmuve.it  19th and 20th centuries.
       a skeleton of an Ouranosaurus             The Museo Orientale has
       nigeriensis, 7 m (23 ft) long and   One of the oldest Venetian   an idiosyncratic collection of
       3.6 m (12 ft) tall, and a fossil of    families, the Mocenigos   Chinese and Japanese artifacts
       a Sarcosuchus imperator – an   produced seven doges. There   collected by the Count of Bardi
       ancestor of the crocodile.  were various branches of the   during his 19th-century travels.
                               family, one of which resided
                                in this hand some 17th-
                                century mansion. Count
                             Alvise Nicolò Mocenigo, the
                              last of this particular branch,
                             died in 1954, bequeathing
                            the palace to the Comune di
                            Venezia (city authorities).
                             The entrance façade is
                           unremarkable, but the interior
                 Ouranosaurus   is elegantly furnished and gives
                 skeleton on display   you a rare opportunity of seeing
                 in the museum  inside a palazzo preserved more
                           or less as it was in the 18th
                           century. The frescoed ceilings and
       y San Stae          other works of art are celebrations
                           of the family’s achievements.
       Campo San Stae, Santa Croce.
       Map 2 F4. Tel 041 275 04 62. 4 San   The illustrious Mocenigos are
       Stae. Open 1:45–4pm Mon, 10am–   portrayed in a frieze around
       5pm Tue–Sat. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec.   the portego on the first floor.
       & 9 ^                 The Museo del Tessuto e del
                           Costume inside the house
       Restored in 1977–8 by the Pro   contains antique fabrics and
       Venezia Foundation, San Stae (or   exquisitely made costumes.
       Sant’Eustachio) has a spick-and-  It also has five rooms dedicated    Gustav Klimt’s Salome, Gallery of Modern
       span sculpted façade. It was built   to the history of perfumes.  Art, Ca’ Pesaro




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