Page 157 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italian Riviera
P. 157

ALBENGA      155


       R Baptistry          Isola Gallinara
       Piazza San Michele. Open combined
       ticket with the Museo Ingauno.  Riserva Naturale Regionale dell’Isola Gallinara. Tel 0182 541 351 (comune di
       Albenga’s most important   Albenga). ∑ parks.it
       monument is also the only
       remaining evidence of the Early   This island lies just off the coast between Albenga and Alassio.
       Christian era in the whole of   Its name derives from the hundreds of wild hens (galline) that
       Liguria. It is thought to have   used to be resident here. It was also once inhabited by hermit
       been founded by Constantius,   monks: St Martin of Tours found refuge here in the 4th century
       general to the emperor Honorius,   and Benedictine monks later founded an abbey, which was
       in the 5th century. Restoration   destroyed in the late 15th century – its ruins are still visible. At the
       work completed in the 20th   top of the island stands the Torre di Vedetta, a tower built by the
       century returned the building   Republic of Genoa in the 16th century. Isola Gallinara is now a
       to its original appearance.  nature reserve and cannot be visited. Boat trips (including those
         Unusually, the Baptistry    for diving) leave from Alassio.
       takes the form of an irregular
       decagon outside, and a regular
       octagon inside. There is a niche
       in each of these eight sides,
       with columns of Corsican
       granite topped by Corinthian
       capitals supporting the arches
       above. The entrance to the
       Baptistry is through one of
       these niches, while others   Isola Gallinara
       function as windows – two of
       the latter feature beautiful
       sandstone transennas. In another   R Palazzo Vescovile  admire precious church
       niche, part of its original blue-   Piazza San Michele.    furnish ings, illuminated
       and-white mosaic decoration    Museo Diocesano d’Arte Sacra:    manuscripts, Flemish tapestries,
       is still visible.   Tel 0182 502 88. Open 10am–noon,   silverware and some fine works
         On the altar niche is Trinity and   3–6pm Tue–Sun. &  of art, including Martyrdom of
       the apostles, a 5th–6th century   This palazzo, whose principal   St Catherine by Guido Reni,
       mosaic in Byzantine style; in   façade faces the Baptistry, is an   Last Supper by Domenico
       another is a Roman-esque fresco   assembly of medieval buildings,   Piola and Annunciation by
       of the Baptism of Christ. The   rebuilt in the 16th century. The   Domenico Fiasella, all painted
       Baptistry also contains some   oldest wing, to the far right,   in the 17th century.
       interesting medieval tombs with   dates from around 1000, while
       Lombard-style reliefs. At the   a 12th-century tower rises from   Environs
       centre is an octagonal font for   the left-hand corner. On Via   A short distance south of
       total immersion baptisms, with    Ricci, typically Genoese black-   Albenga, interesting archae-
       traces of 5th-century frescoes.  and-white striped decoration,   ological ruins of the Roman
         The cupola dates from the   dating from the 15th century,    town of Albingaunum can be
       19th century. Its predecessor,   is still visible.  seen, including an amphitheatre,
       possibly the original, was dis-    The Palazzo Vescovile is now   aqueduct, various other buildings
       mantled prior to that, probably   home to the Museo Diocesano   and a funerary monument
       in error.           d’Arte Sacra, where visitors can   known as “il Pilone”. There are
                                               also traces of a Roman road,
                                               thought to have been part of
                                               the Via Julia Augusta (see p148).
                                                 Around 10 km (6 miles) west of
                                               the city, Villanova d’Albenga
                                               (close to the inter national airport)
                                               is well worth a visit. This fortified
                                               settlement, laid out in the 13th
                                               century to provide extra protec-
                                               tion for Albenga, has a polygonal
                                               layout and outer walls reinforced
                                               with square towers. The alleys
                                               through the town are full of
                                               atmosphere and the scent of the
                                               abundant flowers that the locals
                                               use to adorn their windows
       The interior of the Baptistry, with the remains of a font at its centre  and doorways.




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