Page 160 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italian Riviera

158  THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A AREA B Y AREA

o Imperia – Oneglia of the same name, right at the
heart of Oneglia’s shopping
One of four provincial capitals in Liguria, Imperia lies at the district. It was built from 1739–
centre of the coastal strip known as the Riviera dei Fiori. It 62 in late Baroque style, though
consists of the two centres of Oneglia and Porto Maurizio, the façade was finished only in
united in 1923 by Mussolini. People often say that he chose 1838. The fresco decoration
inside also dates from the
the name Imperia out of arrogance, but it derives from the 19th century.
River Impero, which divides the two centres. Historically Look out for the marble
rivals, the two cities seem to share as little as possible (there tabernacle (to the left of the
are two harbours, two railway stations, even two dialects). presbytery), which dates from
Imperia is fascinating because of its split personality. 1516 and is attributed to the
Gagini school. Various saints are
represented here and, in the
The name Oneglia probably activity in Oneglia. In the summer lunette, Christ arising from the
derives from a plantation of (from mid-June to mid- Tomb. Also of interest are the
elms (olmi), on which the town September), look out for wooden choir stalls; the
was originally built. Oneglia boats offering to take lovely Madonna del Rosario
was recorded in documents guests out to sea to (in the first chapel in the
as far back as 935, when it was watch whales and left-hand aisle), attributed
destroyed by the Saracens. From dolphins – a to the school of the
the 11th century it was owned great experience. 18th-century sculptor
by the bishops of Albenga, but Maragliano; and St Clare
they sold it to the Doria family P Calata Giovan drives out the Saracens
in 1298. (The great admiral, Battista Cuneo (1681), a moving work
Andrea Doria, was born here This characteristic quay painted by Gregorio De
in 1466.) The House of Savoy building faces the Ferrari, a native of
claimed ownership for a time, harbour, its traditional The Madonna del Porto Maurizio, though
but Oneglia, along with Porto arcades perfectly Rosario he spent much of his
Maurizio, passed into the hands designed to shelter time in Genoa.
of the Genoese republic in 1746. fishmongers, trattorias and
The House of Savoy returned in fishermen’s houses. When the P Chiesa di San Biagio
1814, and made Oneglia the boats of Oneglia’s fishing fleet Piazza Ulisse Calvi.
provincial capital. In 1887, an return from their trips out on the Tel 0183 292 747.
earthquake caused severe open sea, an auction of fresh Open 7–11:30am, 4–6pm daily.
damage to the town. fish is held here, usually around This church, dated 1740, has
the middle of the afternoon. a plain façade and a Baroque bell
The Port The fish trade is vital to the tower. The spacious, light-filled
East of the mouth of the River local economy. The local bars interior is shaped, curiously, in an
Impero, the port of Oneglia (Porto and restaurants are always oval and ends in a choir.
di Levante) is dedicated largely to entertaining places in which The church contains various
commercial trade, in particular to pass the time. works of art, among them Gloria
the trade in olive oil (the town has di San Biagio (Glory of St Blaise)
a museum devoted to olive oil). R Collegiata di by Bocciardo, visible in the apse,
There is also a vast pasta factory San Giovanni Battista and a wooden Crucifixion by the
on the seafront. The port, whose Piazza San Giovanni. Tel 0183 292 671. school of Maragliano on the
appearance dates mainly from Open 8am–noon, 3–7pm daily. right-hand altar.
the Savoy period, is the centre of This church stands in the piazza
P Via Bonfante
From Piazza San Giovanni,
the pedestrian street of Via San
Giovanni leads north to Via
Bonfante, Oneglia’s main shop-
ping street. This is a wonderful
place for a stroll, and for soaking
up the atmosphere of the town.
Beneath Via Bonfante’s 19th-
century arcades visitors will
find all manner of art galleries
and shops (including several
designer boutiques), as well
as cafés that manage to
tempt even the hardiest of
The multicoloured, arcaded houses of Calata Giovan Battista Cuneo passers-by inside.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp182–3 and pp194–7

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