Page 164 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italian Riviera
P. 164

162      THE  IT ALIAN  RIVIER A  AREA  B Y  AREA


                              (village of witches), Triora   s Taggia
                              is famous above all for    Imperia. Road Map A5. * 14,000.
                              the witchcraft trials, held    V @ n Via Boselli, Arma di Taggia,
                              here between 1587 and   0184 437 33. _ Corteo Storico dei
                              1589. The unique and   Rioni (4th Sun in Feb); Festa della
                              popular Museo Etnografico   Maddalena (3rd Sun in Jul); antiques
                              e della Stregoneria is   market (last weekend of month).
                              devoted to the story of   ∑ rivieradeifiori.org ∑ taggia.it
                              these trials.
                                  The centre of Triora still   Lying close to the mouth of
                              preserves much evidence   the Valle Argentina is Taggia,
                              of the village’s medieval   whose 16th-century walls
                              origins, with little alleys,   conceal a fascinating medieval
                              narrow streets and houses   village. One of the most
       The church of the Assunta, Triora  huddled together around   impressive sights is the
                              small squares. Of seven   medieval bridge across the
       p Dolcedo           original gates, the only survivor   Argentina, with 16 arches of
                           is Porta Soprana, with a   which two are Romanesque.
       Imperia. Road Map B4–5. * 1,200.
       V Imperia. @ n Comune, 0183   rounded arch. Nearby is the     Via Soleri, the heart of
       280 004. _ La Mongolfiera,   Fontana Soprana, the oldest   the old centre, is flanked by
       traditional country festival (1st    fountain in the town.  porticoes with black stone
       Sun, Sep), organic market (3rd      The one sight not to miss    arches and many fine old
       Sun of month).      is the collegiate church of    buildings. The Baroque parish
                           the Assunta. It was originally   church of Santi Giacomo e
       Situated in the hinterland   Romanesque-Gothic and still   Filippo is certainly lovely,
       behind Porto Maurizio, in    retains the old bell tower and   but Taggia’s most important
       the Prino valley, is Dolcedo, a   main door, though the façade    monument is the Convento
       mountain village with stone-  is Neo-Classical. Inside (reduced   di San Domenico. Built
       paved mule tracks and water-  to a single aisle in 1770) there   between 1460 and 1490, it
       mills along the banks of the   are several notable works of    is considered to have the
       river – evidence of an olive oil   art, including several by Luca   best collection of works by
       tradition dating back to the   Cambiaso. However, chief among   the Liguria-Nice school. Its
       1100s. The local olive groves    them is an exquisite painting on   master pieces include five
       are among the most famous    a gold background of the   works by the French artist
       in the region.      Baptism of Christ (1397), by the   Ludovico Brea.
         There are no less than five   Sienese artist Taddeo di Bartolo.     It is worth popping down
       bridges across the river. The   It is the oldest known painting of   to Arma di Taggia, a small resort
       oldest, known as Ponte Grande,   its type in the Riviera di Ponente.  just a 10-minute drive along
       was built in 1292 by the Knights     There is also the delightful   the coast. It has a lovely beach,
       of St John.         church of San Bernardino,    as well as several hotels
         The parish church of San   just outside Triora; its interior    and restaurants.
       Tommaso overlooks a small   is virtually smothered in 15th-
       piazza, paved in the Ligurian   century frescoes.  E Convento di San Domenico
       style in black and white pebbles.       Piazza Beato Cristoforo. Tel 0184 476
       This Baroque jewel was built    E Museo Etnografico e    254. Open 9am–noon, 3–6pm
       in 1738.            della Stregoneria   Mon–Sat. &
                           Corso Italia 1. Tel 0184 944 77.
                           Open winter 2:30–6pm daily (from
       a Triora            10:30am–noon Sat & Sun); summer
                           10:30am–noon, 3–6:30 pm daily. &
       Imperia. Road Map A4. * 500.
       V San Remo. @ n Pro Loco, Corso
       Italia 7, 0184 944 77. _ Processione   Environs
       del Monte (2nd Sun after Easter), Festa   About 10 km (6 miles) beyond
       della Madonna della Misericordia (1st   Triora, just a stone’s throw from
       Sun in Jul). ∑ comune.triora.im.it  the French border, is the tiny
                           village of Realdo. It is set in a
       The old medieval village of   stunning position, teetering on
       Triora, an outpost of the   a rocky cliff at 1,065 m (3,500 ft)
       Republic of Genoa, lies near    above sea level, with some of
       the head of the Valle Argentina.   Liguria’s highest peaks as a
       With the Ligurian Alps rising    backdrop. The houses have a
       up behind, this is a truly   distinctly Alpine appearance
       enchanting place. Also known   and the few inhabitants speak   The arcaded Via Soleri in Taggia, with its
       as the “paese delle streghe”   in old Provençal.  black stone arches
       For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp182–3 and pp194–7



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