Page 80 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - New Orleans
P. 80

78      NE W  ORLEANS  AREA  B Y  AREA

       w Central Grocery
       923 Decatur. Map 5 D2. Tel 523-
       1620. @ 5, 55. v Riverfront.
       Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sat. = 0
       This historic store, one of the
       few Italian delis left in the city,
       sells all kinds of Italian food,
       from pasta, provolone, and
       mozzarella, to sausages,
       parmesan, and olive oil. In the
       1890s, many Italians began to
       move to the French Quarter,
       and became major stallholders
       at the nearby French Market (see
       p70). Today, customers gather at
       the counters at the back of the
       store to order another specialty,   Taking a break at Café du Monde, with beignets and coffee
       the muffuletta (see p172), which
       is a sizable sandwich filled with   During the mid-19th century,   which rise some 9 ft (3m)
       deli meats and cheeses. The   there were as many as 500   off the ground. A veranda,
       most vital ingredient, however,   similar coffee houses in the   accessible via French windows
       is the olive salad – a blend of   French Quarter. Coffee was one   from all the rooms, extends
       olives, celery, carrots, cauliflower,  of New Orleans’ most important   around the first floor.
       and capers, which can also be   commodities, and the coffee     The name Madame John’s
       purchased at the store.  trade helped the economy   Legacy refers to George
                           recover after the Civil War, when   Washington Cable’s famous
                           New Orleans vied with New   story Tite Poulette (1873), in which
                           York City to control coffee   the hero leaves a residence as a
                           imports. During the Civil War,   legacy to his quadroon mistress,
                           locals drank coffee flavored with   who sells the building, deposits
                           peanuts and pecan shells, to   the cash in a bank, and loses
                           make the coffee supply last.  it all when the bank fails.
                                               Cable used this residence as a
                           r Madame            model of the home in his story.
                                               In the late 19th century, the
                           John’s Legacy       house was converted into
                                               rental apartments, which
                           632 Dumaine St. Map 5 D2. Tel 568-
                           6968. @ 5, 55. v Riverfront.    were occupied by a mixture
                           Open 10am–4:30pm Tue–Sun.   of immigrants.
                           Closed public hols. & 8     Today, exhibits in the first-floor
                           ∑ louisianastatemuseum.org/  galleries relate the history of
       Olive salad and other deli specialties at    museums/madame-johns-legacy/  the house and its many owner-
       the Central Grocery                     residents. Among them were
                           Dating from 1789, this is one of   Jean Pascal, a Provençal sea
                           the oldest surviving residences   captain who built the original
       e Café du Monde     in the Mississippi Valley. It is a   house on this site before being
                           typical Creole plantation-  killed by Natchez Indians in
       800 Decatur. Map 5 D2. Tel 525-
       4544. @ 5, 55. v Riverfront.    style house, suppor ted   1729; pirate-admiral
       Open 24 hours daily. Closed Dec 25.   on brick piers   René Beluche,
       7 - = ∑ cafedumonde.com
       Everyone who visits New
       Orleans stops here for a plate of
       sugar-dusted beignets (square
       French donuts) accompanied
       by café au lait or the famous
       chicory-flavored version, iced
       coffee or a glass of milk. This
       coffeehouse, which was
       established in 1862, is perfect
       for relaxing at a table under
       the arcade and listening to the
       street musicians entertain.   Madame John’s Legacy, among the oldest residences in the Mississippi Valley




   078-079_EW_New_Orl.indd   78                              05/08/16   3:49 pm
     Eyewitness Travel   LAYERS PRINTED:
     Catalogue template    “UK” LAYER
     (Source v2.7)
     Date 1st October 2013
     Size 125mm x 217mm
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