Page 142 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - India
P. 142

140      DELHI   &  THE   NOR TH


                                                 Acclimatizing to Leh
                                                 Visitors flying into Leh,
                                                 situated at an altitude of
                                                 3,500 m (11,483 ft), should
                                                 allow themselves enough
                                                 time to acclimatize. Any
                                                 strenuous physical activity
                                                 should be avoided for at
                                                 least the first 24 hours.
                                                 During the first few days,
                                                 Leh’s high altitude can
                                                 often cause insomnia,
                                                 headaches, breathlessness
                                                 and loss of appetite.
       The abandoned Leh Palace, once the seat of the royal family
                                               which have vibrant murals. Those
       1 Leh               pleasant strolls and walks. In    inside the gonkhang include
                           the heart of town are the Main   a court scene with a portrait
       Leh district. 1,077 km (669 miles) N of
       Delhi. * 15,000. ~ 11 km (7 miles)    Bazaar and Nowshar, with    believed to be that of King Tashi
       S of town centre. @ n (01982) 252   their eateries and curio shops   Namgyal (mid-16th century), the
       297. _ Muharram (Mar/Apr), Buddha   selling precious stones and ritual   founder of the complex.
       Jayanti (May), Losar (Dec). Travel   religious objects such as prayer     At the western edge of Leh
       permits: required for certain restricted   wheels. Along the Bazaar’s wide   is the Ecological Centre, which
       areas in Ladakh (see p146).  kerb, women from nearby   runs development projects in
                           villages sit with large baskets    agriculture, solar energy, health
       From the 17th century     of fresh vegetables,   and environmental awareness
       right until 1949,         spinning wool on    in several of the surrounding
       Ladakh’s principal town,   drop spindles and   villages. The centre also houses
       Leh, was the hub of the   exchanging lively   a library and a shop selling
       bustling caravan trade    chatter in between   local handicrafts.
       (see p146) between        intervals of      The gleaming white Shanti
       Punjab and Central        brisk commerce.  Stupa (“Peace Pagoda”), founded
       Asia, and between         The Jokhang, a   in the 1980s under the sponsor-
       Kashmir and Tibet. The    modern ecumenical   ship of Japanese Buddhists, is
       large Main Bazaar, with   Buddhist establish-   situated on a hilltop west of
       its broad kerbs, was      ment, and the town   the city.
       clearly designed to       mosque, built in the     Less than ten minutes’ walk,
       facilitate the passage    The Buddha,    late 17th century, are   in any direction away from the
       of horses, donkeys and   Leh Palace  close to each other    heart of town, will bring one
       camels, and to provide   in the Main Bazaar.   to a green area or gold,
       room for the display and    Between there and the
       storage of merchandise.  Polo Ground, at the
         The town is dominated by    eastern end of town,
       the nine-storeyed Leh Palace,   is the fascinating Old
       built in the 1630s by Sengge   Town, with its maze of
       Namgyal. A prolific builder of   narrow alleys dotted
       monasteries and forts, with   with chortens and mani
       many conquests to his name,    walls, and its cluster of
       he was Ladakh’s most famous   flat-roofed houses
       king. The palace’s massive   constructed
       inward-leaning walls are in the   of sunbaked bricks.
       same architectural tradition as     On the peak above the
       Lhasa’s Potala Palace, which, in   town are the small fort
       fact, the Leh Palace antedates   and monastery complex
       by about 50 years. Sadly, the   of Namgyal Tsemo (mid-
       solidity of its exterior belies the   16th century), believed
       dilapidation inside, although   to be the earliest royal
       some repair work is now being   residence in Leh. Next
       done. Visitors can go up to the   to its now-ruined fort are
       open terrace on the level above   a gonkhang (Temple of
       the main entrance.  the Guardian Deities) and
         Much of Leh’s charm lies in    a temple to Maitreya (the
       the opportunities it offers for   Future Buddha), both of   Barley fields around Leh
       For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp695–6 and p708


   140-141_EW_India.indd   140                              26/04/17   11:43 am
     Eyewitness Travel   LAYERS PRINTED:
     Catalogue template    “UK” LAYER
     (Source v2.6)
     Date 12th July 2013
     Size 125mm x 217mm
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