Page 390 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - India

388  WESTERN INDIA

Exploring Mehrangarh Fort Museum 16th-century Moti Mahal
or “Pearl Palace”. A palmist sits
The Mehrangarh Fort Museum is justly regarded as the best in the courtyard to foretell
of the many palace museums in Rajasthan. Its rich and varied the futures of visitors.
collection includes a golden throne, fine miniature paintings, The museum also has a fine
traditional costumes and fascinating weapons. Particularly collection of Rajasthani turbans
and folk-music instruments.
magnificent are the skilfully restored royal chambers, which Rooms displaying costumes,
present a vivid picture of princely life and culture in Rajasthan. royal tents and special trea sures
are under preparation.
Environs
Osian, 64 km (40 miles)
northwest of Jodhpur, is the
site of 16 outstanding Jain and
Hindu temples. Built by wealthy
traders between the 8th and
12th centuries, when Osian was
an important stop on the caravan
trade route to Central Asia, they
represent the earliest phase of
temple architecture in Rajasthan.
Famous for the rich variety and
exuberance of their sculptural
Maharaja’s cradle with a mechanical rocking system, in Jhanki Mahal decoration are the 11 temples
at the southern and western
The entrance to the museum The next chamber, on the floor edges of Osian village. Of these,
is through the Suraj Pol on the above, is the splendidly gilded, the most impressive is the
fort’s southeastern side. Inside, 18th-century Phool Mahal 8th-cen tury Mahavira Temple
to the right, is the Palki Khana (“Flower Palace”), the Hall of with a superb ceiling and 20
with a collection of richly gilded Public Audience. It also has carved pillars holding up the
palanquins. Along with the superb miniatures, including main portico. Equally beautiful
impressive elephant howdahs a set of 36 Ragamala paintings are the classically elegant
on display in the Howdah Gallery that depict the moods of 10th-century Sun Temple and
next door, these reflect the various musical ragas. the profusely sculpted Vishnu
importance of grand The 19th-century and Harihara Temples, from
processions in courtly Takhat Mahal, the 8th–9th centuries.
life. Particularly the chamber of a The other temples are on a
impres sive is pleasure-loving hill east of the village, dominated
a 17th-cen tury ruler, is exuberantly by the 12th-century Sachiya
howdah made of painted with murals Mata Temple, approached
solid silver, a gift from of Radha and Krishna through a series of beautifully
the Mughal emperor and dancing maidens. carved arches. This temple is
Shah Jahan. Another A gem-studded The glass Christmas particularly popular with infertile
treasure is a spectacular rhino-hide shield tree balls hanging from women, who believe that
palanquin covered in the ceiling were added Sachiya Mata, an incarnation of
gold leaf, dating to 1730. This in the 1930s. Sardar Vilas, just Durga, has special powers to help
stands in the Daulat Khana below Takhat Mahal, showcases them bear children.
(Treasury Hall), just before the Jodhpur’s fine woodwork.
Sileh Khana with its superb Particularly striking is a door
collection of weapons. inlaid with ivory.
From here, steps lead up The next chamber is Jhanki
to the Umaid Mahal, which Mahal or “Peeping Palace”, so
exhibits miniature paintings called because the women of
of the Jodhpur School. Heavily the royal zenana could peep
influenced by the Mughal through its latticed stone screens
style, these paintings provide to observe the ceremonies and
fascinating vignettes of life at festivities in the courtyards
court – the rulers riding camels below. It now has a collection
with their courtesans, playing of royal cradles, including one
polo and leading ceremonial with an ingenious mechanical
processions. Here, too, is a grand rocking system, surmounted by
silk canopy that was used by guardian angels. From here a The entrance to the Sachiya Mata
the rulers for outdoor camps. courtyard leads to the Temple, Osian
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p699 and pp712–13

388-389_EW_India.indd 388 26/04/17 11:46 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
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Date 12th July 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm