Page 392 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - India

390  WESTERN INDIA

u Jaisalmer VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Today a remote outpost in the Thar Desert, Jaisalmer was Practical Information
founded in the 12th century by Maharawal Jaisal of the Bhatti Jaisalmer district. 285 km (177
Rajput clan. It was once a flourishing trade centre, strategically miles) W of Jodhpur. * 58,300.
n Tourist Reception Centre,
located on the busy caravan trade route to Afghanistan and Station Rd, (02992) 25 2406.
Central Asia. Its earlier rulers grew rich by looting gems, silk and _ Desert Festival (Feb), Gangaur
opium from the caravans, but by the 16th century Jaisalmer Festival (Mar/Apr).
had become a peaceful town, whose wealthy traders and rulers Transport
vied with each other to beautify their austere desert surroundings £ @
with splendid palaces and havelis. Made of the local golden-
yellow sandstone, they are the most spectacular examples of
the Rajasthani stonemason’s art. In the 18th century, with the
growth of sea ports at Surat and Bombay (Mumbai), Jaisalmer’s
importance dwindled. But the buildings from its golden age
still stand, clustered around a magnificent fort (see pp392–3).

= Manik Chowk } Gadisagar Lake
Located at the entrance to the SE of the city walls.
fort, this is the main marketplace, This rainwater reservoir, built
where caravans used to halt in 1367, was once the city’s Colourful turban and long mustache at the
in the past. The tiny shops sell sole source of water. Lined with Thar desert festival
camel-hair blankets and ghats and temples, it comes
gorgeous embroidered textiles. alive during the Gangaur festival P Nathmalji’s Haveli
Desert nomads and their camels (March/April), when the Near Gandhi Chowk. Local guides
add to the bazaar’s colour. maharawal leads a procession can arrange visits for a fee.
here. The gateway leading to the Built in 1855 by another
P Badal Vilas tank was built by a royal courte- prime minister of Jaisalmer,
Near Amar Sagar Gate. Open daily. san, Telia, whose audacity so the particular charm of this
This late-19th-century palace is enraged the queens that they five-storeyed mansion is that
distinguished by its multi-tiered demanded its instant demolition. the two sides of its façade
tower in the shape of a tazia – The quick-witted Telia had a were carved by two craftsman-
the ornately decorated tower statue of Krishna installed on top, brothers, Hathu and Lallu.
of wood, metal and coloured thereby ensuring not only that Though at first glance they
paper, carried by Shia Muslims the gateway would stand, but seem identical, the details on
at Muharram (see p673). The Tazia that everyone would bow before each side are quite different.
Tower of Badal Vilas, built in the passing through it. Besides the usual floral,
mid-20th century, was a parting geometric and animal patterns,
gift to the maharawal from the P Salim Singh’s Haveli this haveli’s motifs also reflect
town’s Shia stonecarvers, many Near the Fort entrance. Local guides new influences – a European-
of whom moved to Pakistan can arrange visits for a fee. style horse and carriage,
after Independence. This haveli was built in 1815 bicycles and steam engines.
by a powerful prime
minister of Jaisalmer. P Patwon ki Haveli
Narrow at the base, E of Nathmalji’s Haveli. Open daily.
its six storeys grow This enormous haveli was built
wider at each level, between 1805 and 1855 by
and all its 38 balconies Guman Chand Patwa, one of
have different designs. Jaisalmer’s richest merchants
Peacocks dance and bankers, who dealt in
between the arches silk, brocade and opium, and
on the topmost had a chain of trading stations
balcony, and blue stretching from Afghanistan to
cupolas cap the roof. China. This six-storeyed mansion
The rear portion of this has five adjoining apartments
haveli was, sadly, for each of his sons, and 66
damaged during the balconies. The curved eaves on
Gujarat earthquake in the balconies suggest a fleet of
January 2001, but sailing boats, and the numerous
visitors are still latticed windows are carved
Gadisagar Lake, lined with ghats allowed in. with breathtaking intricacy.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p699 and pp712–13

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