Page 396 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - India

394  WESTERN INDIA

Exploring Jaisalmer’s Outer Sights protection against the fierce
desert heat and winds, while
The environs of Jaisalmer are dotted with sites of both the paintings that decorate
architectural and natural beauty. These include beautiful their exteriors bring colour
temples, the haunting ruins of the old capital, a fascinating and beauty to the brown,
desert village, rolling sand dunes, and the habitat of a parched environs.
rare desert bird, the great Indian bustard. O Desert National Park
43 km (27 miles) W of Jaisalmer.
For permission, contact Collector’s
Office, Jaisalmer, (02992) 25 2201.
& 8 Jeep & Camel safaris.
This fascinating park is spread
over 3,162 sq km (1,221 sq miles)
of scrub and sandy wasteland,
close to the border with Pakistan.
Its star attraction is the great
Indian bustard (Choriotis
nigriceps), a large bird with a
height of 1.2 m (4 ft). The bustard
had been hunted almost to
extinction, and only about 1,000
Manganiyar musicians, whose ballads recount Jaisalmer’s history remain now, but sightings are
likely here. Other wildlife includes
 Bhattiani Rani Temple concealed beneath the desert sand grouse, several species of
2 km (1 mile) S of fort. Open daily. sands. A beautiful torana leads falcon and vulture, desert fox,
This secluded Hindu shrine was to the main temple, which and chinkara (Indian gazelle).
built in honour of a 19th-century houses a metal sculpture of
Jaisalmer princess who, the Kalpavriksha (“Celestial
surprisingly, committed Tree”). It is believed to have o Barmer
sati on her brother-in- wish-fulfilling powers. Barmer district. 160 km (99 miles)
law’s funeral pyre. A clan SE of Jaisalmer. £ @ n Rajasthan
of Muslim musicians, the } Akal Fossil Park Tourism, Khartal, (02982) 22 2956.
Manganiyars, are the 17 km (11 miles) SE of _ Tilwara Cattle Fair (Jan/Feb),
caretakers of the temple, Jaisalmer. Open daily. Thar Desert Festival (Mar).
and recount this story, & 8
with its intriguing Extraordinary fossilized This remote desert town,
undertones, in their Great Indian tree trunks, some of whose arid soil cannot support
soulful ballads about bustard them 180 million years agriculture, has become a major
Jaisalmer’s history. old, can be seen in this centre for desert handicrafts.
park. They bear witness to the Wood carving, blockprinted
T Bada Bagh fact that this arid area was once textiles, embroidery and carpet
7 km (4 miles) N of fort. & covered with dense forest. weaving are the main source
The royal cenotaphs, with of livelihood for its people. They
elaborately carved ceilings and } Khuri also lavish their skills on their
fine equestrian statues of the 40 km (25 miles) SW of Jaisalmer. mud huts, which are beautifully
rulers, are set in a green oasis. Set among sand dunes, decorated with geometric and
Next to them is the Bhaironji this little village is a superb floral patterns. Barmer buzzes
Temple, frequented by childless example of desert architecture. with activity during the annual
women, who offer their silver Functional as well as beautiful, Tilwara Fair (January/February),
girdles to the deity in the hope the village houses have thick one of the many large cattle
that he will cure their infertility. mud walls that provide fairs in Rajasthan.
T Lodurva
15 km (9 miles) NW of Jaisalmer.
The capital of the Bhatti
Rajputs before they built the
fort at Jaisalmer, Lodurva was
abandoned after it was sack ed
by Muslim invaders in the
11th century. A group of Jain
temples dominates this site,
where the remains of many
other fine buildings lie Traditional thatched mud hut at Jaisalmer
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p699 and pp712–13

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