Page 550 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - India
P. 550

548      SOUTHWESTERN  INDIA


                                               with small chambers now
                                               converted into dwellings. This
                                               leads to a series of gateways
                                               shielded by walls that protrude
                                               outwards from the fort walls.
                                               To the west of the fort are the
                                               derelict tombs of the early
                                               Bahmani sultans.
                                                 Another 14th-century
                                               monument is the Shah Bazaar
                                               Mosque, to the north of the
                                               fort. Its domed entrance cham-
                                               ber leads into a courtyard with
                                               a prayer hall beyond. A street
                                               from here proceeds westwards
       The vaulted hall of the Jama Masjid at Gulbarga  to an arcaded portal flanked
                                               by lofty minarets. Behind this
       g Gulbarga          known, was a Sufi mystic from   portal lies the Dargah of Sheikh
                           the Chishti sect (see p380). He    Sirajuddin Junaydi, a simple
       Gulbarga district. 160 km (99 miles)
       NE of Bijapur. * 428,000. £ @    fled from North India and sought   tomb with arcaded recesses
       n Gulbarga Tourist Office, (08472)   refuge here at the court of Firuz   and a flattish dome.
       220 644. _ Urs (Mar).  Shah Bahmani, a pious and
                           enlightened ruler. His simple   Environs
       This small provincial town   tomb stands in the middle of    The picturesque ruins of
       contains some of the earliest   a large, sprawling complex   Firuzabad, the palace city
       examples of Islamic architecture   comprising a group of lesser   founded in 1400 by Firuz Shah
       in Karnataka. These date to    tombs, mosques and madra sas,   Bahmani on the east bank of the
       the 14th and 15th centuries,   and is a major pilgrimage centre.   Bhima river, are located 28 km
       when Gulbarga flourished as    The Dargah of Shah Kamal   (17 miles) south of Gulbarga.
       the capital of the Bahmani   Mujarrad, another saint who lived   The massive stone walls with
       sultans (see p53), the first of    in Gulbarga, lies further south.  quadrangular bastions and arched
       the great Muslim kingdoms      A complex of seven royal   gateways define an approximately
       to dominate the Deccan.  tombs, known as the Haft   square zone, almost 1,000 m
         The Dargah of Gesu Daraz   Gumbad, lies to the west of the   (3,281 ft) wide. The best preserved
       (d.1422), to the northeast of the   dargah. Firuz Shah Bahmani,    structures are the Jama Masjid
       present town, is one of South   who also died in 1422, is buried   and a two-storeyed audience hall.
       India’s holiest Muslim shrines.   here in the largest and most   Among the remains are the royal
       Khwaja Gesu Daraz, or Bande   elaborate of all the mausoleums.   baths (hamams), with pyramidal
       Nawaz, as he was affectionately   Immediately west of the city are   vaults and fluted domes, said to
                                the desolate ruins of the   be the oldest in the Deccan.
                                forbidding fort, almost
                                circular and protected
                                by a wide moat. Little of   h Bidar
                                the royal centre remains   Bidar district. 120 km (75 miles) NE of
                                intact today. Near the   Gulbarga. @ Autos & cycles available.
                                entrance gateway is the
                                Bala Hisar, a solid keep   Bidar became the Bahmani
                                dating from the 17th   capital in 1424, when Firuz Shah’s
                                century, when the Adil   brother and successor, Ahmad
                                Shahis (see pp546–7)   Shah, moved his court here. With
                                occupied the city.    the collapse of the Bahmani
                                The most interesting   dynasty at the end of the 15th
                                structure, however, is   century, control of the region
                                the large Jama Masjid   passed into the hands of the
                                nearby. Built in 1367,    Baridis. The city was included
                                to commemorate   in the World Monuments
                                Gulbarga’s status as the   Fund in 2014.
                                capital, this is one of      Bidar’s Fort, built in 1428 by
                                the earliest mosques    Ahmed Shah Bahmani, occupies
                                in South India, and the   a promontory that is defended
                                only one without an   by double rings of walls and a
                                open courtyard. To its   moat partly carved out of the
       Devotees at the gateway to the Dargah of Gesu    rear is the 14th-century   bedrock. A trio of arched gates,
       Daraz, Gulbarga          Bazaar Street, lined    one with polychrome tilework,
       For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp701–702 and pp716–17


   548-549_EW_India.indd   548                              26/04/17   11:48 am
     Eyewitness Travel   LAYERS PRINTED:
     Catalogue template    “UK” LAYER
     (Source v2.6)
     Date 12th July 2013
     Size 125mm x 217mm
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