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152      VIENNA  AREA  B Y  AREA                                                                        BEL VEDERE  QU AR TER      153


                                               von Erlachs (see p149) in the   Next door at No. 5 is where
                                               1720s. The main salon has a    Gustav Mahler (see p41) lived
                                               domed hall with a magnificent   from 1898 to 1909. No. 5a is
                                               chandelier. Behind the palace   the Gardekirche (1755–63) by
                                               are the lawns and shady paths   Nikolaus Pacassi (1716–99),
                                               of the park, focused around a   Maria Theresa’s court architect.
                                               pool and fountain designed     It was originally built as the
                                               by Joseph Emanuel Fischer      church of the Imperial Hospital
                                               von Erlach. In the past the    and since 1897 has been
                                               main reception rooms were      Vienna’s Polish church. A huge
                                               used as a venue for concerts   dome covers the entire interior,
                                               and balls.                     which adds to its spaciousness.
                                                 One wing is occupied by      One feature of interest is the
                                               the Swiss Embassy. The present   gilt Rococo embellishment
                                               head of the Schwarzenberg      over the side chapels and
       Schwarzenberg Palace and Joseph Fischer von Ehrlach’s fountain  family served as an advisor to   between the ribs of the dome.
                                               President Havel after the Velvet   Just beyond the Belvedere   The Botanical Gardens created by Maria Theresa in 1754
       8 Arnold            library on topics relating to the   Revolution in Czechoslovakia in   palace gates at No. 6a stands
       Schönberg Center    Viennese School. It also stages   1989 and was Czech foreign   a Baroque mansion. The   century, they remain a centre   style after the Turkish siege
                           concerts, lectures, workshops   minister in 2007–2009 and   forecourt at No. 8 has formed   for the study of plant sciences   of 1683 by the architect and
       Schwarzenbergplatz 6 (entrance at   and symposia. Visitors with    2010–2013.  part of the Hoch schule für   as part of the University of   theatre designer Lodovico
       Zaunergasse 1–3). Map 4 E2.    an academic interest may be             Musik since 1988.   Vienna’s Institute of Botany    Burnacini (1636–1707) and
       Tel 7121888.  % Karlsplatz. @ 4A.     able to arrange access to          At No. 10, behind splendid   and contain more than 9,000   others. Known at the time
       v D, 71. Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri.   Schönberg’s music manuscripts,   0 Rennweg   wrought-iron gates, stands the   plant species. Of equal interest    as the Favorita, it became
       Closed public hols, 24 & 31 Dec.    writings and correspondence.       Salesianerinnenkirche of 1717–  to amateurs, the gardens offer    a favourite residence of
       ∑ schoenberg.at                         Map 4 E2. % Karlsplatz. Gardekirche:
                             Schönberg is buried in the   Open 8am–8pm daily.  30. Its Baroque façade is   a quiet spot to sit and relax    emperors Leopold I, Joseph I
       Vienna’s Arnold Schönberg   Central Cemetery (see pp170–               flanked by monastic buildings   after sightseeing.  and Karl VI. In 1746 Maria
       Center, established in 1998, is   71). His grave has a striking   Rennweg runs from the   in the same style. The upper     The main entrance to the   Theresa, who had moved
       both a unique archive for music   Modernist monument by    Schwarzenbergplatz along the   storey has scrolled projections   Botanical Gardens is on the   into Schönbrunn (see pp174–9),
       scholars and a cultural centre   Fritz Wotruba.  edges of the Belvedere palaces.   that serve as the base for   corner of Prätoriusgasse and   her summer palace, handed
       that is open to the general             At No. 3, a house built by Otto   statues. Like the Gardekirche,   Mechelgasse. Other entrances   it over to the Jesuits. They
       public. Schönberg – composer,   9 Schwarzenberg   Wagner (see p59) in 1890 is now   this church is domed, its   are on Jacquingasse, and via    established a college here
       painter, teacher, music                 the (former) Yugoslav Embassy.   design partly attributed to   a small gate at the rear of the   for the education of children
       theoretician and innovator –   Palace   Though the façade is in shabby   Joseph Emanuel Fischer von   Upper Belvedere, which leads   from less well-off aristocratic
       was born in Vienna in 1874 and   Schwarzenbergplatz 9. Map 4 E2.  condition, the building remains   Erlach (see p149). Apart from   to the Alpine Garden and the   families – the sons of these
       died in Los Angeles in 1951.            an interesting example of      the pulpit, the interior is of   Botanical Gardens.  families were trained to
       Something of a prodigy, he   The Palais Schwarzenberg was   Wagner’s work just as he was   little interest.    be officials.
       began composing at the age of   built by Johann Lukas von   making the transition from     At No. 27, the present-day     Today, the Theresianum is
       9. However, he later dismissed   Hildebrandt (see p154) in 1697   Ringstrasse pomp to his later   Italian Embassy occupies    e Theresianum   still a school and, since 1964,
       much of his early work as   and then altered by the Fischer   Jugendstil phase.  the palace where Prince   Favoritenstrasse 15. Map 4 E3. %   has also been a college for
       “imitative”, gradually developing                                      Metternich (see p32) lived    Taubstummengasse. Closed to public.  diplomats and civil servants.
       a more experimental and, for                                           until he was forced to flee             In the Theresianum park on
       the times, daring approach                                             the city in 1848.   The original buildings of this   Argentinierstrasse stands
       to composition. This was to                                                                former imperial summer    Radio House. It has a beautiful
       culminate in his highly                                                                    palace date from the early    entrance hall, which was
       influential twelve-tone                                                q Palaces and       17th century, but were   designed by Clemens
       composition technique.                                                 Gardens of the      essentially rebuilt in a Baroque   Holzmeister in 1935.
         Although Schönberg’s work                                            Belvedere
       was much admired by fellow
       musicians, it baffled the                                              See pp154–9.
       general public. In 1913 he
       famously conducted what                                                w Botanical
       became known as the
       “Skandalkonzert” at Vienna’s                                           Gardens
       Musikverein (see p150). This                                           Rennweg 14. Map 4 F3. Tel 4277
       featured a programme of                                                54100. v 71. Open 10am–dusk. 7
       modern music so provocative                                            ∑ botanik.univie.ac.at
       that the audience rioted,
       bringing the concert to a halt.                                        The Botanical Gardens were
         The Center contains                                                  created in 1754 by Maria
       fascinating artifacts relating                                         Theresa and her physician,
       to Schönberg’s life and work, a                                        Van Swieten, for cultivating
       gallery of his paintings, a replica                                    medicinal herbs. Expanded to
       of his Los Angeles study and a   Detail of the façade of the Salesianerinnenkirche in Rennweg  their present shape in the 19th   Theresianum, housing a school and a college for diplomats




   152-153_EW_Vienna.indd   152                             03/10/17   11:00 am  152-153_EW_Vienna.indd   153                      03/10/17   11:00 am
     Eyewitness Travel   LAYERS PRINTED:
     Catalogue template    “UK” LAYER
     (Source v2.4)
     Date 25th April 2013
     Size 125mm x 217mm
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